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LIBRARY OF WELLESLEY COLLEGE

PURCHASED FROM LIBRARY FUNDS

WORKS ISSUED BY

XLhc IbaMuiPt Society.

THE TRAVELS

OF

PETER MUNDY,

IN EUROPE AND ASIA,

1608 — 1667.

Vol. I. TRAVELS IN EUROPE, 1608— 1628.

SECOND SERIES. No. XVII.

Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive

in 2010 witii funding from

Boston Library Consortium IVIember Libraries

Iittp://www.arcliive.org/details/travelsofpetermu01mund

THE TRAVELS

OF

PETER MUNDY, IN EUROPE AND ASIA,

1608 — 1667.

Vol. I. TRAVELS IN EUROPE, 1608— 1628.

EDITED BY

Lt.-Col. sir RICHARD CARNAC TEMPLE, Bart., CLE.,

EDITOR OF 'a geographical ACCOUNT OF COUNTRIES ROUND THE BAY OF BENGAL.'

CAMBRIDGE:

PRINTED FOR THE HAKLUYT SOCIETY.

MCMVIL

ur-

PRINTED BY JOHN CLAY, M.A. AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS.

• Ms-

24 O'U

/

COUNCIL

OF

THE HAKLUYT SOCIETY.

Sir Clements Markham, K.C.B., F.R.S., President.

The Right Hon. The Earl of Liverpool, Vice-President.

The Right Hon. The Lord Amherst of Hackney, Vice-President.

The Right Hon. The Lord Belhaven and Stenton.

Thomas B. Bowring.

Colonel George Earl Church.

Sir William Martin Conway, M.A., F.S.A.

The Rev. Canon John Neale Dalton, C.M.G., C.V.O.

George William Forrest, CLE.

William Foster, B.A.

The Right Hon. Sir George Taubman Goldie, K.C.M.G., D.C.L.,

LL.D., F.R.S., Pres. R.G.S. Albert Gray, K.C. Edward Heawood, M.A. Colonel Sir Thomas Hungerford Holdich, K.C.M.G., K.C.S.L,

C.B., R.E. John Scott Keltie, LL.D.

Admiral Sir Albert Hastings Markham, K.C.B. Admiral of the Fleet Sir Frederick William Richards, G.C.B. Admiral of the Fleet Sir Edward Hobart Seymour, G.C.B., O.M. Lieut. -Col. Sir Richard Carnac Temple, Bart., CLE. Roland Venables Vernon, B.A. Basil Harrington Soulsby, B.A., F.S.A., Honorary Secretary.

CONTENTS.

Preface

Introduction . Author's Title

Author's Preface . Author's Contents

PAGE

ix

Relation 1 13 — 40

Mundy goes to France, 13. Early voyages in Spain and Portugal, 14. Sails to Constantinople, 14. His voyage down the Mediterranean, 15 — -18. His description of Scanderoon, 19. Arrives at Constantinople, 21. "Computation" of miles travelled, 24. Author's "Sup- plement," 24 — 40.

Relation II 41 — 136

The journey from Constantinople to Belgrade, 41 — 72. Description of Belgrade, 72—75. Description of the Bulgarians, 76 — 78. The journey from Belgrade to Sarajevo, 78 — 81. The journey to Spalato, 82 — 86. In quarantine, 86 — 88. The voyage to Venice, 88 — 90. Description of Venice, 91 — 98. The journey from Venice to Turin, 98 — 109. Pindar's reception at Turin, 109 — 11 1. The journey over Mt. Cenis to Lyons, iii — 119. On the Loire, to Orleans, 120 — 122. The journey from Orleans to Paris, 123 — 124. Descrip- tion of Paris, 124 — 130. The journey from Paris to Calais, 130 — 133. The passage to Dover, 134. The journey to Islington, 135 — 136. "Computation" of miles, 136.

Relation III 137 — 145

Mundy goes to Seville, 137. Becomes servant to Richard Wyche, 137. Journeys to Spain, 138 — 142. Visits St Malo and Jersey, 143 — 144. Enters the East India Company's Service, 144. "Computation" of miles, 145.

Vlll CONTENTS

PAGE

Appendices

A. Extracts from Blount's Voyage into the Levant . 146

B. Account of the Wyche Family 158

C. The Roy all Merchant and Captain Joshua Downing. 166

D. The Levant Company and its agents at Constantinople

in Mundy's time . . . . . . .171

E. Constantinople in the seventeenth century (Extracts

from the Writings of Grimston, Gainsford, and

Sandys) 183

F. Extracts from Des Hayes' Voiage de Levant and

Bargave's Voyages and Journeys . . . .199

G. Extracts from the Note-Books of Richard Symonds . 217

Bibliography 236

Index 245

Errata . . . . 285

Illustrations

Author's Title-Page To face p. i

"Stakeing, Gaunching and Drubbinge" . . „ 55

" Severall Sorts of Swinginge " . . . . „ 58

Maps

Mundy's Route in Turkey „ 41

Mundy's Route in Italy „ 88

Mundy's Route in France . . . . . „ 113

PREFACE.

ETER MUNDY began writing an account of his many travels in Europe and Asia as early as 1620, and continued his narrative at intervals thereafter up to 1667, compiling a huge MS. volume full of valuable matter of all sorts, and of exceptional interest to students of geography and history. It is therefore a matter of con- siderable surprise that his MS. should have remained practically buried from that time to this. It was known to Tonkin, the early i8th century Cornish historian, and to Thomas Fisher, "Searcher of Records" at the India Office in the early 19th century, but I have found only three references to it in works written during the last sixty-five years. In J. S. Courtney's Guide to Penzance, 1845, there is a short extract from the first Appendix and a brief notice of the work. In Boase and Courtney's Bibliotheca Cornubiensis (1874), vol. i. p. 379, there is a para- graph on Peter. Mundy's Travels, and, in W. P. Courtney's article on Mundy in the Diet, of Nat. Biog. (1894), attention is drawn to the value of his MS., which is commended to the notice of the Hakluyt Society.

My own acquaintance with Peter Mundy and his work is, however, primarily due to Mr William Foster of the India Office, who inspected the MS. at the Bodleian Library some five years ago, and furnished me with an abstract of its contents. Its scope is very wide, as it

X PREFACE

comprises 17th century accounts of practically the whole of Continental Europe, parts of England and Wales, Western India, China and Japan, besides containing his- torical notes of no little value. It covers a period of sixty years, and it is doubtful if any other contemporary work of equal merit exists. The value of such a MS. to the student can therefore be hardly over-estimated, especially as a careful examination has shown that the author was an educated man, who, unlike most writers of his day, does not indulge in "travellers' tales," unless he qualifies them by the saving clause, " This by Relation."

The length of the MS. has necessitated its division into several parts for the purposes of this Society and, in order to keep the early European travels distinct from the Indian voyages, I have thought it best to confine this volume to Mundy's first three Relations and to supplement his information as far as possible from unpublished or little-known works dealing with his various journeys. For this reason, I have drawn largely on the MSS. of Richard Symonds and Robert Bargrave and also on the almost forgotten books of Des Hayes, Gainsford, Grim- ston, etc. The bibliography attached to this volume will show the extent to which the MSS. of the period, both at the British Museum and Bodleian Libraries, have been searched to find contemporary support for Mundy's statements.

The present transcript of the MS. forming the text of this volume has been made from the only complete copy known of Mundy's work, Rawl. MS. A. 315, in the Bodleian Library. It has been carefully collated with Harl MS. 2286 in the British Museum, which contains a duplicate of the early travels only. The method of transcribing adopted is the same as that employed by myself in the case of the Bowrey MS. (Hakluyt Soc. Pub. 2nd series, vol. 12). That is, the author's spelling, with his capitals, is strictly adhered

PREFACE xi

to, but contractions have been written out in full and the punctuation has been altered where necessary for clear- ness. Marginal notes, when repeated in the text, have been omitted, and those of importance have been re- produced as footnotes. Such illustrations as appear in this part are exact reproductions of Mundy's own drawings, and on the three maps supplied are indicated the most important of his early European journeys.

As other volumes are to follow, the introduction to this volume contains only a brief summary of Mundy's career. A detailed account is, however, given of his actions during the years 1608 — 1628, the period covered by his iirst three Relations.

I have had many helpers in the task of preparing this first instalment of Mundy's Travels for the press. To Mr William Foster I am especially indebted both for calling my attention to the MS. and for much generous assistance in the work of editing. I have, besides, re- ceived assistance from many other scholars. In most cases my acknowledgements have been expressed in the notes to the text, but I beg here also to tender my hearty thanks to Professors Blumhardt and Wilson, to Mr Edwin Pears of Constantinople, Mr Donald Ferguson, Mr W. Irvine, Mr W. P. Courtney, Mr F. Cordeux-Rhys and to Dr Rudolf Sanzin of Vienna, for help on various points.

I have again to express my acknowledgements to Miss L. M. Anstey who has been continuously at work with me on this volume for the last two years. Without her assistance and powers of accurate research it is no exaggeration to say that the notes would have lost the greater part of their value. I also wish to record my appreciation of the services of Miss Alice J. Mayes, especially in connection with the references to the Levant Company,

I must further record my thanks to the Cambridge

Xll PREFACE

University Press and Mr John Clay for excellence of printing and saving of trouble in proof-correction.

I have thought it best to attach a full Bibliography and Index to each volume as it is produced, in view of the length and scope of the whole work and of the number of years which must elapse before the final volume can be issued.

R. C. TEMPLE.

The Nash,

Worcester.

June^ 1907.

INTRODUCTION.

HOUGH Peter Mundy was one of the most remarkable travellers that the West of England has ever produced, hardly anything is known of his parentage and family. The following facts are all that we can learn from his own writings. He was born at Penryn in Cornwall ; his grandfather Peter Mundy was " Chanoon or Chantor" of Glasney College, Cornwall, about 1530; his parents resided at Penryn until about 1634; his father was, in his youth, apprenticed at Totnes ; both his father and his uncle were engaged in the " pilchard business"; his paternal aunt married the Rev. John Jack- son, rector of North Petherwin, Devonshire ; he had at least one brother ; and he himself went to Rouen with his father in 1608, when he was presumably about twelve years old. These meagre particulars are practically all that have so far come to light from any quarter, though it is hoped that, before the issue of the last volume of the Travels, additional information will have been un- earthed.

According to Tonkin, the Cornish historian, Peter Mundy was the son of Richard Mundy, Senior, Merchant, but apart from Mundy's own references to his " father," no other mention has been found of him. Richard Mundy and his brother were both alive in 1621, when Peter travelled to Seville with pilchards on their behalf. His mother was alive up to 161 1, after which date he makes no mention of his " parents." His father was alive in 1635, as is shown by reference to him in Mundy's Preface, but he was probably dead before 1645, the date of the

xiv INTRODUCTION

commencement of the St Gluvias burial registers at Penryn, as there is no mention of him there up to 1650, when my search ceased. A Robert Mundy was buried at Penryn on the 1 6th October, 1646, and was apparently the "Robert Mundy of Penrin, Merchant," on the marriage of whose daughter, Joan, with George Kest, circ. 1625, a settlement was drawn up between the fathers of the bride and bride- groom^, but there is no clue as to whether he was the brother or son of Richard Mundy. Peter Mundy's parent- age must thus for the present rest on conjecture.

The Penryn Mundys were most probably connected with the Mundys of Rialton Manor, in St Columb Minor, twelve miles north of Truro. These Mundys were the younger branch of the important family of Mundy of Marketon, Derbyshire, and Osbaston Hall, Leicestershire^ The founder of this family, John Mundy, flourished in the time of Edward I., and the eighth of the line became Sir John Mundy in 1495. Sir John's son and namesake was Lord Mayor of London in 1522-3 and died in 1538. He was the father of a numerous family, two of whom, Thomas and John, his fourth and fifth sons, made their way to Cornwall and founded the Rialton family. Thomas was Prior of Bodmin in the reign of Henry VHI. and died in 1554. John settled at Rialton Manor, a former appanage of Bodmin Priory. Perhaps the Prior's influence procured the appointment of " Chantor at Glasney College" for Peter Mundy, the traveller's grandfather. John Mundy's third son was Richard and, it may be, the father of Richard Mundy of Penryn, but there is no real proof of this. The only other Richard among the Mundys of Rialton, up to the middle of the 17th century, was Richard, tenth child of John Mundy and great-grandson of the first owner of Rialton. This Richard appears by his will to have died unmarried in 1647 and to have had no im-

1 Harl. MS. 6243.

2 See Nichols, History and Afitiquities of the Coimty of Leicester, vol. iv. p. 525.

INTRODUCTION XV

mediate connection with our author. Richard's sister, however, married Hannibal Vivian, whose brothers were Peter Mundy's travelling companions on his voyage to Constantinople, as will be told later on.

Of Mundys of Penryn, besides Robert, mentioned above, the only two that have come to light are Anthony Mundy, living in 1599, and another Anthony Mundy who was buried in 1677. They were presumably father and son and are both described as " of Penrin," the elder being a "merchant" and Member of Parliament for the borough. Unfortunately, the facts connected with these individuals throw no light on their parentage, nor on Peter Mundy and his family. A search among the Mundy willsy proved in the P. C. C, has been equally fruitless. Still, by prosecuting enquiries in every likely direction, I trust that, with the issue of vol. ii. I shall be able to furnish some accurate information as to the origin of so unique a character as Peter Mundy.

As the scope of Mundy's work and the amount of matter that yet remains to be published are so large, I pro- pose to give here but a brief chronological table of his whole career as gathered from his MS., and to follow him in detail only during the years 1608 — 1628, with the story of which this volume is concerned.

Brief chronological account of Peter Mundy s career.

1596 {circ.) Born at Penryn. 1608 Goes to Rouen with his father. 1610 At Bayonne learning French. 161 3 At San Lucar with Mr Parker. 161 5 At Seville with Mr Weaver.

1617 Goes to Constantinople with James Wyche in the Royall Merchant.

1620 Journeys to England overland from Constantinople.

1 62 1 Goes to Penryn.

1 62 1 Goes to Seville on the "pilchard business,"

xvi INTRODUCTION

1622 Returns to England.

1625 Goes to Valladolid about the "Copper Contract."

1626 Goes to St Malo and Jersey.

1627 Returns to Penryn.

1628 Goes to Surat in the Expedition in the East India

Company's service. 1634 Returns from India in the Royall Mary. Goes to Penryn, and is " welcomed home" by his friends.

1634 Makes a trading voyage to London in a "Lobster

boate," and returns to Penryn via Basing House and Winchester.

1635 Goes with Sir William Courten's fleet to India and

Japan.

1638 Returns to England. Arrives in London, 15th

December.

1639 Makes a "Petty Progresse" in England and Wales.

1640 Goes to Holland, Russia, Prussia and Poland on

a trading voyage on his own account. 1647 Returns to Falmouth. 1650 At Penryn. Writes his first Appendix to his MS.

1654 In London. Writes notes on his early voyages.

1655 Makes his third voyage to India in the Alleppo

Merchant.

1656 Returns to England. Arrives in London, 3rd

September.

1658 In London. Writes an Appendix of contemporary events.

1663 Returns to Penryn.

1663 — 1667 At Penryn. Continues the chronicle of con- temporary events, including news from India, the appearance of comets, etc. Concludes with a copy of the Proclamation after the Treaty of Breda, read in Penryn the nth September, 1667.

Peter Mundy passed his childhood in his native town of Penryn in the south of Cornwall, a fitting nursery for a lad whose natural bent was travel and adventure, for it lies at the head of a creek, only two miles north-west

INTRODUCTION xvii

of the then important seaport of Falmouth, which took a prominent part in the EngHsh achievements against the Spaniards in 1588. If, as is probable, he was born in or about the year 1596, it is possible that Peter Mundy's youthful mind was filled with stories of the doings of the Cornish folk in those days. No doubt, also, he was well acquainted with the circumstances attending the catch of pilchards, " our Countrey Comoditie^" and had perhaps, from this source, acquired a knowledge of the sea and sailors.

His early instruction was most likely received at the "free Schoole" at Penryn, one of the three then existing in Cornwall, and also at North Petherwin, where he " liv'd awhile"with his uncle, the Reverend John Jackson, "Preacher and Pastor of that Parish^" In 1608, his father, Richard Mundy, took him, while still a lad, to Rouen, the capital of Normandy, on account of his education and perhaps in connection with the pilchard business®. At Rouen, Peter Mundy remained one month and was then sent to Bayonne to " learne the French Tongue*." There he stayed two years, returning to Falmouth in 1610.

In May, 1611, he commenced the work of a life that proved to be an exceptionally busy one, and left his home to serve with Captain John Davis as a " cabin-boy^," a position which was then apparently quite different from that occupied by the cabin-boys of to-day. The term seems to have signified a trade-apprentice rather than a menial servant. By the beginning of 161 3, he is found to be in the care of Mr George Weaver, who lived with a Spaniard at Sanlucar de Barrameda at the mouth of the Guadalquivir, and who may have been engaged in the flourishing pilchard" and tin trade of Cornwall with Spain.

1 See p. 137. ^ Mundy's first Appendix.

^ " In France they utter their pickled Pilchardes." Norden, A Topographical Description of Cornwall., p. 23.

* See p. 13. ^ See p. 13 f.

^ "The dryed ware (Pilchardes) theycarrye into Spayne." Norden, A Topographical Description of Cornwall, p. 23.

M. b

xviii INTRODUCTION

Peter Mundy stayed with him about two years, until he went, at the end of 1614, to Seville under the orders of Mr Charles Parker. In this service he visited, for the purposes of trade, the ports at the mouth of the Guadiana. He had probably picked up some knowledge of Spanish from Senor Patinno at Sanlucar, and in the two years he spent at Seville he " attained 1" that language. After an absence of five years and seven months, he returned to London with Captain Davis. He was now a young man of about twenty, well-equipped for that life of incessant travel which he subsequently led. A full record of his proceedings at this period does not appear to have come down to us, as he says that Relation I. refers only to " some Voyages etts. recalled to memory since my first settinge forth-."

On the 1 6th December, 1654, thirty years after he wrote Relation I., Mundy added to his earlier Remarks on France and Spain as follows^: — ''London^ the i6th December, Anno 1654. My intention is, if God spare mee life and leisure, to Copy outt this booke over againe, as well to rectifie whatt is amisse according to my abilitie, as allsoe to insert many things omitted by mee, amongst the rest some thatt follow, Vizt.

Roan, 1608. My first voiage was over to Roane in Normandy with my Father. The Citty lieth on the bancks of Seine, a River thatt runneth through the Citty of Paris, passeth by this, and att Newhaven^ runneth into

^ See p. 14. ^ See p. 24.

3 The extracts quoted are taken from fol. 220 of Mundy's MS. and are entitled "The Appendix Somwhat concerning severall Citties, Places, etts." The length of the MS. is so great that these remarks were overlooked until it was ransacked for evidences of Mundy's life. Since they were discovered too late to print as the Author's Appendix to Relation I., I have thought it best to reproduce them here.

* I can find no record at this period of any other name but Havre de Grace for the port at the mouth of the Seine. Still, as the town was not a century old when Mundy visited it, having been founded by Francis I. in 15 16, it is just possible that, in his day, it was known to Englishmen as the New Haven. The Sussex port, now called New- haven, was then the village of Meeching, and possessed no harbour.

INTRODUCTION xix

the narrow Seas, the Contention betweene which and the River produceth a strange effect, called by us the Bore, especially att Spring tide, for the River keeping his course against the tide of floud, which rising att length over- maistreth the River, in such manner that the streame which ran Downeward is in an instanc forced backe againe with exceeding swiftnesse and fearful 1 Noise heard A greatt way off^ This bore or tide head comes sodainely many foote high like great rouling feathering Waves, over- turning smalle vessells, boates, etts. what it meetes in its way, making others fleete thatt are aground, and all this as I said on a sodaine appearing for a while like a tem- pestuous Sea thus only as it passeth by, and soe runneth

farre up in to the Country^

There is att Roan a greatt bell (which I allso saw not) through forgetfulnesse, butt heard much therof by others. There is written about it this verse : —

JE SUIS GEORGE DE GRANBOIS^ DE CINQUANTE MILLE

POIZ, MAIS QUI ME PESERA, SOIXANTE MILL ME TROUVERA.

I heard a Dutch Captaine say that hee measured the Circumference, and that it was nine fathom and one span of his about the brymme ; hee beeing a tall Man, it could not bee lesse then fifty-five foote in circumference, which is aboutt eighteen foote Diameter, and, as aforesaid, 60000 waightt* 600 quintalles-' or 30 tonne.

There are allsoe many poore people, both men and

1 The bore on the Seine extends as high as Caudebec, rises from one to three feet, and is similar to the bore at the mouth of the Severn to v/hich Mundy compares it.

2 Here Mundy adds a short paragraph about " The Tide head in Severne."

3 A mistake. This famous bell was called George d^Amboise. It was cast by order of George, Cardinal d'Amboise, the favourite minister of Louis XII., and was hung in the Tour de Beurre, the loftier of the two towers of Notre-Dame at Rouen. The bell was melted down at the Revolution.

* i.e.^ pounds. ^ A quintal of 100 lbs.

XX INTRODUCTION

weomen ; sometimes a man and his wife in stead of horses Drawing small Carrs, transporting of goods from place to place in thatt Citty.

Bayofi, 1610. Bayon in Gascony lieth on the borders of France, betweene it and Spaine. There the Artisans wives wear an attire on their heads like unto Morions or head peeces, made of lynnen, stuft with Cotton, coullored with saffron, stucke with pinns\ I was told they wear it for a remembrance of their courage and resolution in assisting to expell the English from thence aboutt Anno 1453, wee holding thatt place and all Gascony besides many years-. (Search the Chronicles^'.) Servant Maides goe in their haire, which hangueth displayed and Dispersed over their backes and Shoulders, having the Crowne of their heads shaven Just as friers.

San Lucar, 161 3. Att this place an Englishman married a Spanish woman (who Dwelled next Dore to us)'* Killed his wife and one of the Kings Commissaries finding them together, who^ after some trouble, was freed according to the lawes of the Country. Here lived then Don Alonso PERES DE GAZMAN DUQUE DE MEDINA SIDONIA, who was generall in 88«, and Died before my comming from Spaine, aboutt Anno

1615^

Sevill, 161 5. Of this Citty much might bee said, it beeing large, populous, Ritche, and a place of greatt trafificke. I will only relate a word or two of some par- ticularities therin. The Bridge over which they passe to

^ In the MS. there are two small drawings of male and female heads with the " attire " described.

^ Here the author has a marginal note, "31th year Henry 6 [z>. 1453] ; wee held it 300 years." The dates are correct.

2 This is probably a memorandum intended by Mundy for himself.

* i.e., Mundy and Mr George Weaver. See ante, p. xvii.

^ i.e., the Englishman.

** Alonso Perez de Guzman, Due de Medina Sidonia, who com- manded the Spanish Armada in 1588, retired to San Lucar circ. 1595 and died there in 161 5.

'■ Mundy left Spain and returned to England at the end of 1616.

INTRODUCTION xxi

TRIANA is built on greatt Lighters and mored att both ends, rising and FaUing with the tide^

La GIRALDA DE SEVILLA or tower of Sevill. LA IGLESIA MAYOR or greatt Churche. The Steeple or tower of the greatt Church is exceeding high, very artificially built, soe thatt all the bells may bee seene from withoutt side, in number aboutt twenty-six. The great bell the best thatt ever I heard I It may bee ascended on horsebacke untill you come to the said belles. On the top of all is the Image of a Woman standing on a globe, holding a banner in her hand, which serves as a fane to shew the winde. The said Image is called LA GIRALDA, from which the whole tower takes its namel From the said tower I saw the high hills of GRANADA, accompted 40 leagues off; they are allwaies covered with snow. The Churche beelonging to the said tower is very large, faire and ritche, it having 500,000 Ducattes of yearly rent, admirably graced with rare and costly Images, pictures, etts. ornamentes within. And I conceave with the best musicke both for Instrumentts and voices thatt is in all Spaine.

EL ALCAC^AR, or King's house, att Sevilla. The Alcacar (or as wee pronounce it Alcasar) or Kings house is allsoe an Elaborate Structure*.

LA VEGA DE SEVILLA^ or vally of Sevill, for proffitt and Delight nott to bee parallelled in the whole world for plentie, variety and excellency of Productions, take one with another. It lyeth in the best part of

^ The Moorish bridge of boats over the Guadalquivir, connecting- Seville with the suburb of Triana, existed until the middle of the 19th century. In 1845-52 an iron bridge was erected a little below the site of the ancient bridge.

^ The Santa Maria, set up in 1588.

^ The Giraldillo, or vane, is a bronze female figure, representing Faith, cast by Bartolome Morel, in 1568. It stands on a small dome and holds the banner of Constantine.

* The palace of the Moorish Kings and a Spanish royal residence after the capture of Seville by the Christians in 1248.

^ Ve^a, an open plain, a tract of level and fruitful ground. The district south-east of Seville is extremely fertile.

xxii INTRODUCTION

ANDALUZIA, which province is accounted the most fertill in all Spaine.

I had forgotten LA XARALL^ DE SEVILLA, which is a large forrest of Olive trees round about the cittie, 1 8 leagues in compasse, somwhatt Distant from it, having many townes, villages, pasture, tillage, gardeins, etts. in and outt among itt. I was att Las dos HERMAN AS (the two sisters), a towne soe called^, filling oile in pipes at the oile Mills, lying aboutt two leagues off.

A Strange Ceremony. I was told thatt when the King of Spaine cometh thatt way and is to enter the Citty, they make a bridge for him thatt hee may com over the walls and not through any of the gates ; for, through which gate so ever the King enters, all goods, Merchandize, etts., which shall either bee imported or exported through the same, shall bee Custom free, which would bee a greatt losse and hinderance to the Citty : soe the King is pleased to com over the walls as aforementioned.

AYAMONTE. I can say butt little of this place, only the Harbour or inlett Devideth Spaine from Portugall, on the Spanish side Ayamonte, on the other Castromarin. Into this Inlett or Creeke runneth the river GUADIANA, which, aboutt 40 leagues up in the country runneth into the ground, and aboutt 20 miles from thence, riseth outt of the earth againe^ This by relation and Description in mapps. I saw it not. I came from Sevill to this place*, where I remained butt a little while. From hence I went over to Castro Marin Speto T A VI LA in the Algarves^ aperteyning to the Kingdome of Portugall.

^ Xaral or Jardl, a place planted with the cistus or labdanum shrub (see Stevens' and Neuman and ]3aretti's Spanish dicfwnaries). Hence, probably, any plantation.

- Dos Hermanas is g miles from Seville.

^ The Guadiana disappears 12 miles from its source (at Lugar- Nuevo) and for 15 miles is lost in a bed of reeds and rushes.

* i.e., Ayamonte.

^ Tavila or Tavira, in Algarve. Mr Donald Ferguson suggests that ' Speto' may be Mundy's mistake for perto, near. As it stands, the passage is unintelligible.

INTRODUCTION xxiii

From these places are transported great store of figs, oile, etts."

Whether Mundy went to his home in Cornwall on his return to England after his absence in Spain is doubtful, as, within a fortnight, he was off again on his travels. This time to Constantinople, whence we know that he returned to Cornwall in 162 1. His new master was Mr James Wyche, one of the numerous sons of Richard Wyche, a London merchants James Wyche went to Constantinople in the interests of his father, a member of the Levant Company, and Mundy seems to have been engaged as a mercantile clerk, an office for which his pre- vious experience would render him well fitted. He sailed, in 1617, on the Royall Alerchant, under the command of Captain Joshua Downingl

The Royall Merchant carried several passengers, all interested in the Levant trade. Mr James Garraway (or Garway), whose kinsman Thomas founded the famous coffee-house, and Mr Bartholomew Abbot, whose relative Sir Morris Abbot owned the ship, were on board. There were besides, two Cornishmen, Roger and Charles Vivian, sons of Hannibal Vivian " of Trelewarrein." The Vivians were connected by marriage with the Mundys of St Colomb Minor* and were probably no strangers to Peter Mundy*.

To a man of Mundy's power of observation, the voyage through the Mediterranean was " full of various Novelties and delights'," and he tells us of several matters characteristic of sea travel in his day, including a story of a " terrible broyle^" off Cape St Vincent, which nearly occurred from mistaking a friendly fleet for pirates in the

1 See Appendix B. ^ gee Appendix C. ^ See cmte^ p. xv.

* Charles Vivian, at the time of his voyage to Constantinople, was apprenticed to Sir Morris Abbot, " Cittizen and Draper of London." He obtained ''his freedome" in July, 1622, and was admitted a member of the Levant Company, instate Papers, Foreign Archives, vol. 148, p. 74 b.) Roger Vivian was Sir Thomas Abdy's companion in his travels in France in 1633. He died in 1653.

'" See p. 16.

xxiv INTRODUCTION

darkness. He also remarks on the hospitality that English merchants settled abroad always extended to their fellow- countrymen at that time.

Of the various observations he records may be noted those on the cleanliness and decorative beauty of Leghorn, where he gained his first experience of quarantine. Off Stromboli he saw a volcano in active eruption — also a first experience. At Zante he noticed the cultivation of " cur- rence" to the exclusion of corn. He gives an unpleasing description of Scanderoon (Iskanderun or Alexandretta), with its " boggs, foggs and froggs^" It was then the port of Aleppo, and there he tasted roast porcupine and wild boar and found them " Savourie meate^" He made the usual guess of his day at the site of Troy on passing that neighbourhood, and finally he reached " the famous Port and Imperiall Cittie of Constantinople^" where he at once became engrossed in business.

During the time that he spent in the Turkish capital he must have heard and seen much of interest. Un- fortunately he kept no record of this period of his life, and his account, which was written circ. 1634, and revised in 1650 and 1654, consists only of "passages recollected by Memory"*." Among these " passages" are the revolutions that occurred during his stay and the turmoil occasioned by them. He arrived a short time before the death of Ahmad I. and witnessed the accession of the hapless Mustafa, who was taken from a prison to a throne. Three months later, in February, 16 18, he heard of the revolt in favour of Osman and of the imprisonment of Mustafa for the second time. His summary of these events, " Three grand Signiors in three monethes'," is brief and to the point. Mundy also remarks on three events which occurred during his sojourn in Constantinople and terrified him, namely, a slight earthquake, an extensive fire causing heavy loss of life, and a visitation of the plague when the

^ See p. 19. ^ See p. 20. ^ See p. 21.

* See p. 3. ^ See p. 21, ;/. 5.

INTRODUCTION XXV

mortality was said to have risen to a thousand a day. The contemplation of these horrors causes him to close Relation I. with the ejaculation, " From which evills and all others, good Lord deliver us, Amen\"

Mundy gives practically no description of the life of his day in Constantinople, but it does not seem to have pressed heavily on the Europeans, for he tells us that " the English Merchants pass very Commodiouseley with pleasure, love and Amitye among themselves^." This last remark seems to show that James Wyche and his im- mediate friends did not personally suffer from the many obstacles to English trade, of which the ambassador, after- wards the well-known Sir Paul Pindar, was sending home so many and bitter complaints while Mundy was living in Constantinople.

Among recreations, Mundy mentions that he joined a party of his countrymen in an excursion to Pompey's Pillar, on the eastern shore of the Black Sea.

Mundy is curiously careful to give, at the end of each Relation, " computations " of the miles he travelled during his journeys, and he reckons the total distance traversed from the time he set out for Rouen till his arrival at Constantinople, including his visit to Pompey's Pillar, as 175394- He was obviously proud of these tables of dis- tances and with reason, considering that his only means of transit were sailing vessels, horses or wheeled vehicles drawn by animals.

In i6i8, James Wyche succumbed to small-pox, which was epidemic in that year at Constantinople. After his master's death, Mundy " remained with Mr. Lawrence Greene," Junior, a merchant, who, we may reasonably infer from this fact, had been in some way connected with James Wyche. This Lawrence Greene subsequently became the Levant Company's Consul at Smyrna, and was one of the many merchants then residing at Pera, a suburb of Con- stantinople. From this new association, Mundy doubtless

^ See p. 39 f. ^ See p. 22.

XXVI INTRODUCTION

gained further insight into mercantile affairs. He "re- mained" with Lawrence Greene for nearly two years, but whether he was acting in the interests of the Wyche family or as clerk to Greene, or in both capacities, it is difficult to determine.

Mundy's account of Constantinople is very meagre. With his usual strict adherence to truth, he owns that the memory of his early years is somewhat indistinct, and he therefore contents himself with referring his readers to "the relation of others^" and only comments on those things of which he took " particuler notice." Between i6io and the time when Mundy revised his MS. in 1650, many travellers had visited Constantinople and had re- corded their impressions in print. With some of these works Mundy had made himself familiar, and they prob- ably served to refresh his memory as to the scenes in which he had passed his early manhood.

Of the objects which had remained imprinted on his memory, the "haven^" at Constantinople holds the chief place. As is natural in one bred up in sight of Falmouth Harbour, it draws forth more commendation than do all the great buildings of Constantinople. The saving of labour in the lading and unlading of vessels and the extent and safety of the sheltered basin also appealed to one trained from boyhood to estimate the possibilities of trade in English commodities with European ports. Mundy's other remarks on the chief points of interest in the city where he spent nearly four years are, as he says himself, but " course and Coursary^."

On the arrival of Sir John Eyre to succeed Paul Pindar as the Levant Company's representative at Con- stantinople, Mundy obtained permission to return to England in the train of the retiring ambassador. He was present at the ceremonial reception of Sir John Eyre by the Grand Signior, at which time Pindar bade his official farewell to the Turkish monarch.

1 See p. 30. ^ See p. 37 f. ^ See p. 25.

INTRODUCTION XXVll

In his Relation II. Mundy gives an account of his journey overland from Constantinople to London. In this story, he chronicles, in the form of a diary, the events of each day and the various stages of the route from the 6th May until the i8th September, i620\

Pindar's reason for travelling across Europe instead of returning to England by sea is not known. It is possible that he had instructions from the Levant Company to enquire into the state of their trade in the inland cities with a view to creating additional mercantile centres, as he visited all the important places with which the Company had established relations.

The ex-ambassador's cavalcade was such as befitted his position. He left his house at Pera, accompanied by his nephew, several members of the Levant Company, an interpreter and seventeen servants of various nationalities. The ambassador and the merchants rode, and twelve waggons carried the baggage and the servants. A guard of twenty-one Janissaries was told off by the Grand Signior as a protection during the first stages of the journey. Six Frenchmen, who had accompanied Monsieur de Cesy, Louis XIII.'s ambassador, to Constantinople, joined Pindar's party with thirty-one carts for " themselves and their Lumbermentl" The cavalcade thus consisted of fifty-six persons, and it was further augmented at the outset by the resident merchants of Galata, twelve in number^ who escorted Pindar from his house at Pera to

1 He probably kept a rough record of events and put it into shape on the return voyage from India in 1634, when he wrote the account of his early travels comprised in Relation I.

2 See p. 44.

3 Since the text of Relation II. was printed, information has come to hght regarding Messrs Hunt, Guilliams and Lowe. (See note 2 on p. 44, and notes 2 and 3 on p. 45.) In 1623, Henry Hunt, "late apprentice of Mr Roger Harvey, having been employed in the Com- pany's privileges for three years beyond the seas and upwards," was admitted to the freedom of the Levant Company. In February, 1624, Abell Guilliams, " Apprentice to John Williams haveing served three yeares and upwards in the priveledges and payed the usual fyne of xxj." was admitted to the freedom of the Company. On the 6th July, 1626,

XXVlll

INTRODUCTION

the " Fresh Waters," two miles distant. Here, five of the merchants took their leave, the other seven remaining two days with the party and turning back to Pera on the morning of the 8th May.

The first halt was on the 6th May, 1620, at Kuchuk Chekmeje, the Little Bridge, seven miles from the walls of Constantinople, where Mundy spent the night in a kJidn or posting-inn, a place which must have struck him as being widely different from an English hostelry. From this point, as far as Belgrade, the route followed was for the most part that now used by the Orient Express, as will be seen from the table g-iven below.

Constantinople to Belgrade.

Mundy's halting-places in 1620.

Constantinople.

The Fresh Rivers.

Kuchuk Chekmeje.

Biyuk Chekmeje.

Kumburgas.

Silivri.

Chorlu\

Karistran.

Lule-Burgas.

Baba-eski.

Khafsa.

Adrianople.

Mustafa Pasha.

Hermanli.

Uzunjova.

Kialik.

Papasli.

Stations of the Orient Express in 1907.

Constantinople. Kijchuk Chekmeje.

Karistran\ Chorlu. Lule-Burgas. Baba-eski.

Adrianople. Mustafa Pasha. Hermanli. Uzunjova.

Papasli.

Francis Lowe, " son of Sir Thomas Lowe deceased," demanded his freedom and was admitted by patrimony on paying the usual fine and taking the oath. State Papers, Foreign Archives, Levant Conipaiiy, pp. 79 b, 109 a, 148 a.

^ Mundy apparently put these two places in the wrong order.

INTRODUCTION

XXIX

Philippopolis.	Philippopolis.
Tatar Bazarjik.	Tatar Bazarjik,
Novi Khan.
Kapuli.	Kapujik.
Ikhtiman.	Ikhtiman.
Sophia.	Sophia.
Zaribrod.	Zaribrod.
Pirot (Sharkoi).	Pirot.
Qurut chesme.
Bela Palanka.	Bela Palanka.
Nisch.	Nisch.
Rashan.
Para tj in.	Paratjin.
Yagodin.	Yagodin.
Batotschina.	Batotschina.
Palanka.	Palanka.
Kolar.
Grotzka.
Belgrade.	Belgrade.

Time occupied by Mundy on the journey — 25 days.

Time occupied by the Orient Express on the journey — 24 hours.

The route, shown above and on the map facing p. 41, was the old post road, which was still the chief means of communication from Constantinople to Belgrade up to the middle of the nineteenth century. A German Route map of 1819^ marks all the halting-places given in Mundy's list with the exception of three small villages. The mileage between each place was estimated by Mundy according to his " whole dayes and halfe dayes Journeys^" and is by no means exact, though the distances corre- spond roughly with those on the German map. The

1 Nouvelle Carte des Pastes de rAlleinagiie on des pays situes aic centre de PEtcrope divisee dans ses Etats dapres le Congres de Vienne et les derniers Traites de Paris, &c., &c. Par A. P. H. Nordniann, Vienne, 1821.

^ See p. 136.

XXX INTRODUCTION

present editor, who travelled from Constantinople to Belgrade in December of 1906, was able to trace the old post road, either as a road or a track, alongside the rail- way for miles.

From Kuchuk Chekmeje, the cavalcade kept along the sea-shore for five miles to Biyuk Chekmeje, the Great Bridge. In both of these towns Mundy remarked the bridges spanning the creeks, erected during the reign of Sulaiman the Magnificent. At Biyuk Chekmeje the party encamped for the night in the open, Pindar having first set a guard and arranged for its relief every two hours. Still skirting the coast for fifteen miles farther, the next halt was at Silivri, the ancient Selymbria, where again a camp was pitched in the open. The road now turns northward, and, abandoning the coast, passes through a ravine, and Mundy very aptly describes this portion of the route as "a plaine Champion Countrie without either Tree or bush exceptinge att Townes or Villages^" At Chorlu, on the 9th May, two members of the train and an Armenian servant, who had left at Kuchuk Chekmeje, rejoined the party. The following day a distance of thirty miles, among open plateaus, was traversed as far as Lule-Burgas, where a welcome supply of fresh water was found. Between Baba-eski, some sixteen miles from Burgas, and Adrianople, there is a long stretch of country, over which the baggage waggons could travel without any hindrance.

In six days Pindar and his party reached Adrianople, a journey that nowadays occupies but eight hours. Here the usual open-air encampment was impracticable owing to a heavy thunderstorm, and the party sought shelter in " a better harbour, which was profered us, beinge a great howse to lodge the Gran Signiors trayne and horses, when he cometh thither-." Mundy has a short description of the Grand Signior's Seraglio at Adrianople, the first building of importance that he had seen since he left the Turkish capital. At Adrianople " Stamo the Greeke " quitted the

^ See p. 60 '^ See p. 49.

INTRODUCTION XXXI

Englishmen in order to enter the service of Caspar Gratiani, VoiVode of Moldavia, at one time Pindar's dragoman.

The travellers now proceeded towards Philippopolis, a distance of ninety-five miles. The road lies between the spurs of the Rhodope and Balkan mountains, and offers a strong contrast to the flat marshy land encountered at the commencement of the journey. Mundy remarks that "from Adrianople hither (Philippopolis), although the like plaine ground, yett over growne with woods and Bushes of Oake for the most part\"

A halt was made at Mustafa Pasha, of which place Mundy tells a story relating to the bridge over the Maritza. Thence the party proceeded to Hermanli, thirty-six miles from Adrianople, where they pitched near a large khan. Like the emissary of Louis XIII., Des Hayes, who travelled over the same ground in the following year, Pindar avoided sleeping in a Turkish inn whenever practicable. Keeping near the left bank of the Maritza, the party reached Uzunjova in the valley of the Usundji. Thence they made their way to Kialik, "a poore Towne of Christians " where there were only " poore howsesV' in one of which Pindar was compelled to lodge.

Mundy makes no particular comments on his halting- places between Constantinople and Kialik, the first " Christian village." He only remarks generally that all the " Townes " were " somewhat hansome with their Churches, Canes and Bathes fairely builtl" He is, how- ever, careful to note the " fresh rivers " and " stone bridges," such as that at Khafsa, near which the party encamped on the nth May I

Between Kialik and Papasli, " another poore Towne of Christians 2," the road runs north-west, closer to the moun- tains, leaving the Maritza gradually to the south. Pindar only stayed to dine at Papasli and proceeded on the same day, the 17th May, fifteen miles farther, to Philippopolis or

1 See p. 60. 2 See p. 54. ^ See p. 49.

XXXll INTRODUCTION

Filibe. Finding that the plague was raging in the city, the ambassador caused his followers to cross the long wooden bridge over the Maritza and to encamp on the opposite side of the river, at the same time issuing strict orders forbidding any member of his train to enter the infected district. In close proximity to the travellers' camp were the gruesome remains of two highwaymen who had been staked alive a week previously. Of Philippopolis, Mundy has not much to say beyond a remark as to its founder and its position " in a greate plaine with high hills on either side, hard by a River, over which was a tymber bridged"

From Philippopolis to Sophia the road traverses the woods and valleys stretching up the slopes of the Rhodope mountains, a more picturesque, but at the same time more perilous part of the journey than that hitherto passed. Having dined at Tatar Bazarjik, sixteen miles beyond Philippopolis, the party proceeded a few miles further to Novi Khan, " a Christian villageV' where they remained for the night. On the 19th May they came to the Pass of Kaprulov Derbend. By Pindar's orders, each of his followers went through on foot, fully armed, in order to be ready to resist the attacks of robbers, but, says Mundy, " God bee praised, there was none I"

Passing two villages of " poore Christians^" there were more perils to encounter. At one point was a place so infested with robbers that there " wee mett a man beatinge on a drumme, sett there of purpose to advise travellers whether there bee theeves or noe, hee abideinge in the most daungerous place of alP." At last the " woodie moun- taines " were left behind and a valley of "inhabited places" was perceived. Ikhtiman, " where are ten other Townes in sight'*," was the halting-place on the night of the 19th May. Between Ikhtiman and Sophia was another lurking place of robbers, and here again a drummer was posted to give the alarm to travellers. On nearing Sophia, the extensive view of the enclosed plateau in which the city lies greatly

1 See p. 55. 2 See p. 60. ^ See p. 61. * See p. 61 f.

INTRODUCTION xxxiii

impressed Mundy, as he came upon it after several days of wandering among devious mountain paths. But the traveller should not be misled by this description, as, after it is entered, the plateau is in reality distinctly dreary. Mundy calls the table-land a "plaine" and notes "about twenty Townes and villages in the said plaine all in sight togeather^" The cavalcade halted for a whole day at Sophia. During this time, Pindar paid a ceremonial visit to the Viceroy of Rumelia, who was on his way to the shores of the Black Sea to repress a Cossack raid.

On the 22nd May, two miles beyond Sophia, the party was augmented by two soldiers, sent by the Viceroy as a special guard for Pindar, and by a chawiish (important official) with an escort of Janissaries in charge of treasure for Buda. Mundy does not mention when the first guard of Janissaries, who escorted the ambassador from Constan- tinople, left the party, but it is hardly probable that they proceeded farther than Adrianople.

A halt was made for dinner in the plain of the Isker. Thence, to Zaribrod, the travellers had an unpleasant experience, "entringe among Rockie Hills, wee were over- taken with rayne, where wee had not only a dangerous passage by reason of Theeves, but very troublesome and wearisome by reason of the rocky stony way and durtie weather-." When at last Zaribrod was reached, "Lodginge" was found to be "very scarse," and Pindar himself had to put up with cottage accommodation. The next day matters were little better, and the horses so weary " by reason of the dirtie way " that a halt was made at midday at Pirot, where the jaded animals rested until the next morning. The Janissaries and the chazviisJi, however, pushed on, " their busines requiring more hastl" Their place as protectors was taken by fourteen cavalry soldiers {sipdhi) furnished to Pindar in accordance with an order from the Grand Signior. The ambassador had also full licence to impound provisions in the various stopping places on his

1 See p. 63. ^ See p. 66.

M. c

xxxiv INTRODUCTION

way to Belgrade. Of this latter privilege he did not avail himself, as he would be " wronging the poore Christians thereby^"

Passing along the valley of the Morava, the travellers came upon a deserted Christian village and made their way to Bela Palanka, where they found a stockade, in which Turkish soldiers were intrenched to repel any incursion of marauding Christians^ An additional body-guard of thirty-one soldiers from this fortification accompanied Pindar half way through the rugged steeps and defiles to Nisch, the district being especially notorious for robbers. When the most dangerous part of the route was accom- plished in safety, the escort was dismissed with a reward and a certificate of efficiency. The remainder of the road to Nisch is described as "although not soe dangerous and mountainous, yett altogeather soe stonie and dirtied" At Nisch Mundy noted the bridge over the Nissava, " a Castle none of the best" and some ruined walls'.

On the 26th May, a few miles on the road towards Belgrade, Pindar's party overtook the chawush and Janis- saries who had left them at Pirot^ Travelling was now easier, " the way beinge faire and plaine, although desert {i.e., deserted) and full of woods^" At Rashan their lodging was for once in a khan.

The next day the travellers passed through the small village of Paratjin and came to the banks of the Morava, where the lack of a bridge caused a loss of " four howres at least in passinge our selves and necessaries I" The halting- place that night was Yagodin, where there was another of the palangJias or fortified stockades. Winding next day along the mountain slopes, the party halted at Batotschina for dinner, probably about midday, reaching later on Hassan Pasha's Palanka, " the fairest wee savve hetherto." Again they spent the night in '• a large CaneV

On the 29th May, the cavalcade passed through Kolar,

1 See p. 67.	2 See p. 68.	^ See p. 69.
* See p. 66.	^ See p. 'JO.	6 See p. 71.

INTRODUCTION XXXV

amid the dense forests bordering the Danube. Grotzka, situated on this " the most famous river in Europe," was the next halting-place. Both at Kolar and at Grotzka, Mundy noi&d palanghas, and at the latter place "two great stone Canes " also, Pindar, however, avoided the khans and " pitched neere the Towne^" where, as at Philippopolis, his camp was in the neighbourhood of the remains of a man staked for robbery.

On the 30th May, the twenty-fifth day after the departure from Constantinople, the ex-ambassador and his followers arrived at Belgrade. " Heere my Lord hired a howse being determined to stay some few daies^." As a matter of fact, Pindar spent eight days in Belgrade, and Mundy had an ample opportunity of exercising his powers of observation. He was greatly struck by the " thirty-five floating milles" on the river near the city, "makeinge as faire a shewe afarr of[f] as they were handsome within-." It is interesting to note that now, nearly three hundred years after this account was written, there are still water- mills of the same kind at Belgrade. The abundance, variety, and cheapness of the fish to be obtained from the Danube also attracted Mundy's attention. In the city itself he remarked that the buildings, "Churches, Besistenes, bathes and Canes excepted," were " generally made of Boards," but that " howsoever, those wooden buildings make a faire shewe, beinge very handsomely contrived -V The castle and fortifications are described at some length, with special reference to the " Clocke which is heard over all the Cittie''." Other objects in Belgrade which appealed to Mundy were the " Ferrie boats of one peece," the " greate boates for carrieing too and froe Corne, wood, salt etts.," the "Artillery howse^" with its trophies from the siege of Kaniza, and the rivers Danube and Save with their unequal currents. He was also interested in the various nationalities dwelling in the city.

^ See p. 71. ^ See p. 72. ^ See p. 73 f.

* See p. 74. 5 See p. 75.

xxxvi INTRODUCTION

At Belgrade Pindar discharged the baggage waggons in view of the "mountainous waie^" to be traversed before reaching Spalato. He paid a state visit to the kdzl during his stay, which was apparently prolonged by the difficulty of procuring horses " for our farther proceede, there being none in Towne, only those newely arrived from other partsV At Belgrade the travellers lost the services of Thaddeus Murad, the Armenian engaged " to dresse vic- tualls^" This man, who was the servant of Mr Wilson, was permitted to return to Constantinople, taking with him a Bulgarian woman whom he had secured as a bride for his brother.

On the 7th June, Pindar and his party left Belgrade and entered on a more toilsome stage of their journey. The heat was intense for the first three days, and the cavalcade only covered thirty miles. A compulsory halt was made at noon, and at night the camp was pitched " in the feilds." On the 9th June, Valjevo was reached. Pindar's tent was set up beside the Kolubara river and the party refreshed themselves with "Cherries at a farthinge a pound." At night the ordinary watch was augmented by a guard of twenty men sent by the kdzl for protection, "the place being somewhat dangerous for Theeves^." On entering Valjevo, Mundy noted the remains of two of these gentry who had been staked as a warning to their fellows.

On the lOth June, travelling was more pleasant both as regards way and weather, the day " not very hott of it selfe " and "our waie beinge through shadie woods... ascendinge and descendinge pleasant mountains'." The travellers now entered the mountain system, of Bosnia and Herzegovina. They seem to have followed the valley of the Jablanitza, crossed the Medvednjik Planina or mountain pasture and descended into the valley of the Ljubowija. Mundy was much impressed with the truly Alpine scenery, the " mountains which exceeded all others that ever I sawe for height and beautie, not steeple, but gentlie riseinge by

1 See p. 72. 2 See p. 75. ^ gee p. 76. * See p. 78. ^ See p. 78 f.

INTRODUCTION XXXVli

degrees, the Topps being as good ground as the bottome and as firtill^" He marvelled that "this pleasant peece of Countrey " should be allowed to lie " in a manner waste, and growen with weeds and woods of exceeding high trees\" The descent to the valley of the Ljubowija was steep and the " quantitie of good ripe Strawburryes^" found near the river must have been welcome.

On the iith June, the party was ferried over the river Drina, and, six miles farther, they halted, apparently near the Jadar river, where they " dined and past the heat of the day-." Here Mundy noted the site of the ancient silver mines of Srebreniza, and a khan in the neighbourhood, by which the camp was pitched.

On the 1 2th June, the toilsome ascent of the Romanja Planina was accomplished. It was found to be " much higher than wee expected ^" At the foot of the mountain the travellers probably looked for civilization, but their road lay for " twelve miles farther through a plaine where were only six or seven villages and many scatteringe dwellings, all made of wood, where was neither bread nor wyne, nor any thinge els to bee had butt att very dear ratesl"

On the 13th June, after a fifteen miles journey, "for eight miles the way reasonable plaine, but from thence... very mountainous and rocky^," Sarajevo was reached. Since the 7th June the party had only traversed 93^ miles, or about thirteen miles per day, as against the average of twenty-one miles per day between Constantinople and Belgrade. The bad roads, mountainous country and great heat all contributed to delay their progress.

Two clear days were spent in Sarajevo in order to procure fresh horses for the remaining distance to Spalato. The cost of hire from Belgrade to Sarajevo was about V2S. 6d., and thence to Spalato about lOi". 6d. per horse. A long halt at Sarajevo was undesirable, as, owing to the piratical acts of the Uscocs, who were believed to have been encouraged by the Venetians, all Europeans were in

^ See p. 79. ^ See p. 80. ^ See p. 80 f. * See p. 81.

XXXVlll INTRODUCTION

ill-odour in the city, and the people "very bigg and tall... very discourteous to Francks^" Pindar, therefore, "haveing taken a howse," in order to avoid altercations, " forbadd anie to stirr out of doores\" In spite of this prohibition, Mundy seems to have seen the chief objects of interest in the Bosnian capital. He tells us that it " lyeth among the Hills," and that "the howses heere in generall have theire walls of Clay\" He notes the castle built by Cotroman, the large number of mosques and the equally large number of water-mills on the Miljacka, "lyeinge one lower then another, each haveinge but one little wheele, which the water turneth-."

On the 1 6th June, the party set out for the last and most difficult part of their journey, namely over the mountains to Spalato. As far as Lisicici they took the route now followed by the Sarajevo-Mostar railway. Their first stage was Pazaric^. Thence, to the village of Ivan on the ridge of the Ivan Planina, the way was " mountainous and rocky 2." On the 17th June, they came to Konjica, "a goode Towne" on the Narenta, "a prettie river... cleire, greenish and verye swifts" Following the river for seven miles, they reached Lisicici, where they dined.

From this point the travellers went by local roads, and it is difficult to follow them, especially as Mundy's account of this part of the journey is somewhat confused. It is clear that, after leaving Lisicici, the party followed the Narenta as far as its junction with the Rama. Then they left the Narenta and kept beside the Rama for some few miles when they crossed it "by a bridged" After this, the route is very indistinct. The party ascended " an ex- ceedinge high Mountaine and steepy^" and found them- selves on an elevated plateau with another mountain facing them, " altogether soe high but much more steepy^^." On the i8th June, they were confronted by a third "high mountaine which had little descent to bee perceived*." This proved to be the last of the fearsome heights to

1 See p. 81. 2 See p. 82. ^ See p. 83. * See p. 84.

INTRODUCTION XXXIX

be surmounted before the travellers reached the plateau of Borovaglava on the Prologh mountains. Here their eyes were gladdened by the sight of civilization, for, in the plateau, though " environed with stonie barren hills," there " were store of villages and other dwellings " with clearings " to prevent Theeves that usually lurked amonge (the Forrests of Pine trees) \" Crossing the plateau in a southerly direction, the party encamped for the night near a spring.

On the 19th June, the dining place was by "a great Lake^ " which is not named by Mundy, and may be either the Semaroromo Blato or the Rusko Blato. From either of these the way is "stony and rockey" as far as the river Cettina. When the Cettina, the " river of a marvelous slowe motion 2," was reached, the travellers' troubles were prac- tically over. They spent the night in a khan and crossed the river " by boate " on the 20th June, 1620. Their dining- place was beneath the famous castle of Clyssa, " built on a high cragked Rock-," whence, a mile farther, the party entered Venetian territory. Once over the boundary, a startling change was apparent. " Wee entred into Christen- dome, then seeminge to bee in a new World, such was the alteration wee found, not only in the Inhabitants, but also in the Soylel" Mundy grows quite enthusiastic in his description of the three miles of country between the Turkish territory and the gates of Spalato. He remarks that even the stones were turned to a useful purpose and served instead of hedges, and that, in the cornfields " they being then reapinge, were rancks in the Furrowes of Olive trees, Pomgranett Trees, Pines and figg trees ^" The " watch Towers " erected as places of refuge by the Venetians "on the hills alongst the sea Coast^" are also noted.

At Spalato the travellers were immediately placed in quarantine, but were treated with great consideration, special rooms being allotted to Pindar and his company

1 See p. 84. 2 See p. 85. 3 See p. 85 f. * See p. 87.

xl INTRODUCTION

and "beddinge, lynnen, Tables, Chaires and necessaries" being sent in to him, also " fresh Victualls soe that wee wanted nothing but liberties" As soon as he was esta- blished in the Lazaretto, Pindar received a visit from the Venetian governor of Spalato, " th' one sittinge without the gate, and thother within, a good way a sunder^" Two days later the Governor paid another visit, when Pindar obtained the release of John Clarke, one of his servants. After being disinfected, Clarke "was licensed^" and proceeded to Venice to prepare for the reception of his master. Instead of the usual " forty, thirty, twenty, fifteen" days' detention in quarantine, Pindar and his followers had "Prattick" on the tenth day, "but herein his Lordshipp was greatly favoured"."

While Mr Lane was making arrangements for trans- porting the party to Venice, Pindar, " with the Gentlemen^" dined at the Governor's house. Meanwhile, Mundy had a cursory glance at the town of Spalato, which he found " strongly built, furnished with many soldiers and many brave, stout edifices, although auntientl"

On the night of the 29th June, being furnished with their certificate of health, the party set out in a " barke of Tenn Tonnes," together with the " Frenchmen," who had "hired another for themselves^" Skirting the Dalmatian coast, the boats passed the garrison town of Zara, where Sir Henry Peyton's detachment of soldiers, sent for the assistance of the Venetian Republic, was then stationed. The wind was favourable, and the ships made good pro- gress, " alwaies among small Islands, verie stoney and barren as the Mayne seemed to beeV On the ist July they passed through the narrow Canal d'Ossero, between Cherso and Lussin. Sailing across the Gulf of Quarnero to the Punta di Promontore on the 2nd July, the vessels steered through the Canale di Fasana between the island of Brioni and "the Mayne," where Mundy noted the " prettie harbour^" of Pola, then an insignificant town. Owing to the presence of

1 See p. 87. 2 See p. 87 f. ^ See p. 88. " See p. 89.

INTRODUCTION xH

a galleass off Pola, it was thought that "provision would bee scarse," and Pindar's party went on to Rovigno. Here the *' Captaine of the place invited his Lordshipp and Gentle- men home to his howse\"

On the evening of the following day, the 3rd July, 1620, *' the wynde coming faire^" the party again set sail, and, crossing the Gulf of Venice entered the ' Queen of the Adriatic' through the channel of S. Andrea del Lido, having spent four days at sea. The short voyage was probably a welcome change after the toilsome journey from Sarajevo and the ten days' confinement at Spalato. At S. Andrea, the boat was stopped by the sanitary officer, who inspected the travellers' health certificate and gave them " leave to goe whether wee would-." The boat pro- ceeded to " the verie faire howse^ " on the Cannaregio, which John Clarke had taken for the ex-ambassador during his stay in Venice. The house belonged to a Venetian noble- man and was rented at ;^20 per month, while the fur- niture, plate, etc., were hired of Jews at the rate of i^io per month. Mundy was much impressed with the interior decorations of this house, which was " as curious within as it was faire without^"

Pindar remained a month in Venice, during which he paid and received ceremonial visits from the ambassadors of Spain and Savoy, and also had constant intercourse with Sir Henry Peyton and his officers^ While he was thus employed, his followers were free to explore the city. Of all the sights of Venice, Mundy considered the arsenal "the most worthy notice'." The extent of the place and the variety and completeness of the work carried on within its precincts aroused his wonder and admiration*'. He was shown the famous Bucentaur and heard an account of the ceremony in which she took part each Ascensiontide". Other objects of interest in Venice, such as St Mark's, the

^ See p. 89. The Capitano of Istria is still the chief ofificial of the Peninsula, having his Head Quarters at Parenzo, north of Rovigno. '■^ See p. 90. ^ See p. gr. * See p. 92 f.

^ See p. 97. " See pp. 93, 94, 96. " See p. 95.

xlii INTRODUCTION

Campanile, the canals, the Rialto, etc. are only lightly- touched on, but the gondolas receive more attention \ On the whole, Mundy opined that, in Venice are " wayes tO' gett, but many more to spend"."

On the 4th August, 1620, Pindar and his train set out for Turin, travelling by boat up the Brenta to Padua^ "which boates, after our comeinge into the River, are drawne with horses^." On the way Mundy noted the "pleasant Country howses of the Nobillitie and gentlemen of Venice."' At Padua the party lodged for three nights at The Golden Star. While there, Pindar exchanged visits with the young- Lord Maltravers and his brother, who were studying at the University^ In the city Mundy remarked the " many voyd places and ruynes''." He has no comment on any of the public buildings except the Hall "to heere lawe suites^""

From Padua to Verona the party travelled by " Caroches^." It was now augmented by three followers, but lost Thomas Humes "the ScottishmanV' who remained at Padua. Randolph Symes, the Levant Company's agent for the transmission of letters at Venice and the neighbour- hood, accompanied Pindar as far as Vicenza and stayed with him at The Three Kings. On the 7th August, the travellers dined at Villa Nuova and reached The Cavaletta at Verona on the same day. The " Amphitheater" in this "famous and auntienf^" city claimed Mundy's attention. In 1655, while on his third voyage to India on the Alleppo Alejxhajit, he added to his earlier description a further account from the Travels of George Sandys ^

The cavalcade was now following the post road tO' Milan. On the 8th August, the travellers passed through Cavalcaselle and went thence to Peschiera, " a stronge Castle" at the end of "Lago de Garda... wherein are vessells both for fishinge and transportation ^" The resting place that night was at The Venetian Arms in Lonato.

^ See p. 97 f. 2 See p. 98. ^ See p. 100.

* See p. 99. '' See p. 43. " See p. loi.

'' See p. 102 f. ^ See p. 104.

INTRODUCTION xliii

On the 9th August, Brescia was reached and the party dined at " the signe of the Tower, a very faire Hosteria or Inne\" Here Mundy noted the fortifications and the "good Castle which is noe more then needs, it standing soe neare the Spanish Dominions^" At Brescia, too, he first observed sufferers from goitre, a malady to which he makes frequent allusions. Late in the evening of the 9th August, the travellers arrived at The Spread Eagle at Orzi Vecchi. Passing Orzi Nuovi, "a very strong walled and well kept Town-,'' the road led to the river Oglio, M^hich was crossed by boat. Since leaving Venice the party had had " extra- ordinary pleasaunt travellinge^" through cultivated country. The vineyards and the method of training the vines especially excited Mundy's admiration. From Soncino, "a walled Towne," then under the Duchy of Milan, Pindar and his train passed on to Crema, also a " walled TowneV' but in Venetian territory. Four miles beyond Crema, the boundary proper of the Duchy of Milan was reached, and thence the party pushed on to Lodi, where the wooden bridge over the Adda was broken, " soe past it over by boate, and dyned at the Catt and the bell." The night was spent at The Eagle and Horn at Malegnano. On the evening of the following day, the iith August, 1620, "wee came to the greate Cittie of Millan and dyned att the Three Kings^" On his way out of Milan, Pindar met the Duke of Feria, the Governor, and went " back to our lodging with him, where hee stayed a quarter of aw hower and departeds" In the evening Pindar returned the visit. While this interchange of civilities was taking place, Mundy seized the opportunity to visit the Cathedral, where he saw the tomb of the celebrated Cardinal Boromeo, " with lights continually burninge." In the morning, on the way out of the city, Mundy noted the castle of Milan, " accounted one of the strongest in Christendome'*."

The Naviglio-Grande Canal, on which Mundy remarked the " great flatt bottomed BoatesV' laden with country

1 See p. 104. 2 See p. 105. ^ See p. 106.

* See p. 107. ^ See p. 108.

xliv INTRODUCTION

produce for Milan, was crossed by a bridge. Two miles farther, the party came to the Ticino, " verye great and swifteV over which boats conveyed them to the other side, where there was no further hindrance to their progress, and nearly forty miles were covered in the day. Between Novara and Vercelli the boundary of the Duchy of Milan was passed, and the travellers entered the territory of the Duke of Savoy. At Vercelli were many evidences of the siege of 1617, "a great number of dwellings, etts. buildings, battered downe and levelled with the grounds" Here the night was spent at The Cardinal's Hat. On the 13th August they dined at The Angel at Sian, and reached The Golden Lion at Chivasso the same evening.

The next day the party arrived at Turin, " the principall seate of the Duke of Savoy-," where Pindar, as an ex- ambassador, had a grand reception both from Sir Isaac Wake, the English ambassador, and from representatives of the Duke of Savoy ; "himselfe was now absent^." He was lodged in " a very faire howse of the Dukes ready furnished^" and had a suite of servants appointed to attend him ; "Also the provisions att the Dukes charged" During his two days' stay in Turin, Pindar paid formal visits to the various members of the family of the Duke of Savoy. He also went to see "the Dukes great Gallerye^" with its " Curious statues and Pictures, with 48 presses of bookes and great store of Armour^"

For the next portion of the journey fresh horses were hired to go as far as Lyons, at about £4. each, and on the afternoon of the i6th August, 1620, the party was escorted out of the city with great pomp, the two ambassadors riding " both in one Coach^ " as far as the " Three flowre de Luces " at Avigliana, where Sir Isaac Wake remained until the following morning. The travellers then proceeded to The Three Pigeons at Bussolena and prepared to "enter the Alpesl" From Bussolena they went on to Novalese, where they put up for the night. On the i8th August,

^ See p. 108. 2 5gg p_ jQg 3 See p. no.

* See p. III. ^ See p. 112.

INTRODUCTION xlv

they began the ascent of Mt. Cenis " which wee found to be steepie and Rockey^" Having passed the boundary between Savoy and Piedmont, they continued the ascent to the " faire, cleire Lake" on the top\ near which was the building erected for the reception of Princess Christine, when, a year previously, she had journeyed from France to Savoy as the affianced bride of Victor-Amadeus, the Duke's eldest son. At this "howse" the Duke himself was in waiting for Pindar's party, and " his Lordshipp went to visitt and thanck his highnes for the great honour and loveinge entertainement which hee had received att Turing" Now began the "discent of the mountaine^" which was " wonderfull Steepie, soe that every man allighted, my Lord beinge carried downe in a chaire betweene Two men I" At Lanslebourg the travellers dined at The Three Kings. On the Piedmont side of the mountain Mundy found the patois " hard for us to understands"

From Lanslebourg, the road lay along the valley of the Arc, " there beinge all the way great falls of WaterV' thence to St Michel and St Jean de Maurienne, " a Stronge walled Towne^" and the only one (except Chambery) " among the Alpes " commended by Mundy. All the rest "were very poorely built and as poorely inhabited','' the people, too, were, many of them, sufferers from goitre, some of them having "greate Wenns under their Chinns...as bigg as a mans heads" At Aiguebelle, on the 29th August, the party split up, Pindar and his immediate entourage going on to Montmelian, while the " Servants and stuffe remained heereS" On the arrival of the baggage at Chambery, the servants heard that their master had " passed forward " to Aiguebelette. At Chambery, Mundy and his companions enjoyed the comforts provided at The Golden Apple, "a Compleat howse and very good enter- tainementS" The town, "the laste... within the Alpes," is described as " the fairest " with " handsome comely buildings tiled with slates S"

1 See p. 113. ^Seep. ii3f. ^ See p. 114.

* Seep. 115. ■ 5 Seep. 117. " Seep. 116.

xlvi INTRODUCTION

There yet remained the peak of Aiguebelette, which though "very steepy upp and downed" was crossed on the 22nd August, 1620. At Pont de Beauvoisin, the boundary between France and Savoy, Pindar awaited his servants and baggage. The united party proceeded to Bourgoin and thence to the " Posthowse^" at La Verpilliere. On the 24th August, they reached Lyons, where Mundy noted the floating-mills on the Rhone and Saone, but found them " much inferior in Beautie and bignes " to " those of Belgrade-." He had no time to examine the buildings at Lyons on account of his short stay there, and he only remarks of the city that it was "great and populous. ..of great Traffique, aboundinge with Merchants and Shopp- keepersV

On the 25 th August, the party again divided. This time the " Attendants " went on with fresh horses to Tarare, " my Lord etts. being to come after^." Being unimpeded with baggage, the gentlemen had no difficulty in overtaking the servants and pack-horses at Roanne on the following day. Here fresh transport arrangements were made. The horses were dismissed and two boats were hired, at a cost of about £4. los., to convey the party down the Loire to Orleans. Owing to the shallowness of the river, the boats were " aground twenty or thirty tymes every day^" and Orleans was not reached until the eighth day after leaving Roanne. Mundy found " all the Countrey downe the River very pleasant and full of Citties, Townes, villages and build- ings, meadowes, gardens, etts.'*" St Aubin-sur-Loire and La Charite were the halting-places on the 29th and 30th August. At Decize, the party arrived too late to enter the city so " lodged without the walls •\" Between Decize and La Charite they passed Nevers, " a faire and stronge Cittie with a stone bridged" Mundy was struck by the " great store of protestants and whole Townes of them " on the Loire^ and he especially remarked the Huguenot strong- hold at Sancerre, which he saw in the distance after

1 Seep. 118. ^ Seep. 119. ^ See pp. 120 and 122.

* See p. 123. ^ See p. 120. "^ See p. 122.

INTRODUCTION xlvil

passing La Charite^ On the Loire, too, were "att least one hundred and fifty floatinge Mills'-."

On the 31st August, after passing several villages, the boats reached Gien, " a stronge Towne. Here wee lodged att a Protestants howse^" The party arrived at Orleans late on the ist September, 1620, and, as the journey was continued early on the following morning Mundy had no time to see "perticulers worth notice in this famous placeV' except the " very faire stone bridge with shopps and buildings on itl"

The distance between Orleans and Paris was covered by coach. Soon after they set out, the travellers came upon the bodies of " two men executed, one hanged on a Tree, and the other layd on a wheeled" The road led through Artenay and thence to Toury, the route now followed by the railway. Mundy, however, drove along "a Cawsye " through " plaine and level P " country. On the 3rd September, the coaches passed through Angerville, Etampes and Arpajon, the latter part of the way "a little Hillie, though pleasant, fruitefull, and full of TownesV From the " three Black moores " at Arpajon, the cavalcade went direct to Paris, by Longjumeau and Bourg-la-Reine, ■" all the way wonderfully peopled and Inhabited"*." Just outside the city were the remains of four poor wretches who had been broken on the wheel.

In Paris, Pindar's party lodged at the Iron Cross in the Rue St Martin. Mundy made good use of the two days he spent in the French capitals With Messrs Davis and Wilson he visited the Louvre, Notre Dame, the unfinished Luxembourg palace, the Exchange, and St Innocents' Church. The bridges over the Seine, especially the Pont Neuf, with its clock and statues of Jean d'Arc and Henri IV., excited his admiration. In the Louvre he noted the most important sculptures and paintings, especially the portrait of Marie de Medici by Pourbus. The " Store-

^ See p. 121. 2 See p. 122. ^ See p. 123.

* See p. 124. ^ See pp. 124 — 130.

xlviii INTRODUCTION

howses full of Deadmens bones^" in St Innocents' church- yard astonished him. Of the Bourse he thought but little^ but was highly pleased with " the prospect of the whole Cittie-" which he beheld from one of the towers of Notre Dame.

On the 6th September, 1620, the travellers again set out, having hired fresh coaches from Paris to Calais. Two of their number were left behind, " Signor Dominico with a feavour and Vincentio to attend him I" Passing through St Denis, Pierrefitte, St Price, Moisselles, and Beaumont, " a faire Towne^" the party reached Pisieux in the evening. Next day they dined at Beauvais and slept at Le Hamel, " a poore Towne where wee had as poore entertainement^" Thence they went on through Poix to Pont Remy, "a walled Towne, and lay att the Crowned" On the 9th September, they breakfasted at Abbeville, dined at Bernay, "a poore TowneV' and, passing through Montreuil and Neufchatel, reached Boulogne on the loth September, 1620. Here Mundy's eyes were gladdened by the sight of the English Channel, " haveing seene noe Sea att all since our departure from Venice'." At Boulogne the party lodged " att the Grayhound in the lower Tovvnel" Thence they followed the coast, "and in sight of England''," to Marquise and Calais. The large settlement outside the walls of this "stronge Towne*'" attracted Mundy's attention. At the gates the travellers were disarmed and were warned not to approach the walls or bulwarks. Within the fortifi- cations, Mundy noted the church built by the English and a "faire Markett place**."

At Calais the coaches were dismissed and a " Catche hired... to carry us to Dover"." Preparations were made to cross to England on the 12th September, but "the Wynde overbloweing " the boat " durst not adventure over the Barr'." The next day the weather improved and the

1 See p. 129. - See p. 130. ^ See pp. 42, 43 and 130.

^ Seep. 131. * Seep. 132. ^ Seep. 133.

' See p. 134.

INTRODUCTION xlix

passage was made in three hours and a half. The "Catche" was anchored off Dover and the passengers were landed in small boats, while "the Stuffe went about into the Haven^" That night, the 13th September, 1620, the first that Mundy had spent on English soil since January, 1618, he slept at the " Grayhound." Meanwhile, Pindar was welcomed home by his brother Ralph and his kinsman, Mr Spike. At Dover, Mr Lane, who seems to have been Pindar's purveyor and paymaster, hired "a great Waggon^" to convey the baggage to Gravesend, and sent it off in charge of seven servants. The remainder of the party left Dover on the 14th September and reached the Chequer's Inn at Canter- bury the same evening. Mundy found the " Cathedrall Church " with its " multitude of windowes of coloured glasse" very "goodly to behold I" The city, too, he describes as having " faire streets and Shopps well fur- nished^."

On the 15th September, the party proceeded, via Sittingbourne and Rochester, to Gravesend, where Pindar, who had been "deteyned and entertained^" by the Arch- bishop of Canterbury, overtook them. Thence, they went up the Thames in two gigs. At Blackwall, five coaches were in readiness to convey the travellers to Pindar's house at Islington, where Mundy slept on the i6th and 17th September. On the i8th, he took leave of the ex-ambas- sador, " humbly thancking him for divers favours received of him^"

Whether Mundy had any intercourse with Pindar during his sojourn at Constantinople, or whether he only obtained permission to travel in Pindar's suite through the influence of Lawrence Greene, is uncertain. It is clear, however, that his relations with the ambassador must have been sufficiently intimate for Pindar to form an estimate of his ability and for Mundy to have cause to regard his patron with affection as well as gratitude. To Pindar was entrusted, fourteen years later, the account of Mundy's

^ See p. 134. 2 See p. 135. ^ See p. 136.

M. ■ d

1 INTRODUCTION

early voyages, and it was also Sir Paul Pindar who " seriously recommended " him and his affairs to the favour of the East India Company in 1634. Mundy himself tells us nothing of his connection with his patron in the years following the journey from Constantinople. It is, howeven likely that, when in London, he paid his respects at Pindar's mansion in Bishopsgate Street Without.

With his usual and justifiable pride in the extent of his journeys, Mundy states, at the end of Relation II., that the distance from London to Constantinople amounts " by my Computation^" to 1838 miles. His rate of travelling was, therefore, 22^^ miles per day, exclusive of the time spent in Belgrade, Spalato, Venice, etc.

Of the seven years following the "Journey Overland from Constantinople to London " Mundy has but a scanty record. He tells us that his Third Relation is, like the First, "recollected by memorie-." In March, 1621, he revisited his native town and, in the summer of that year, he went to Seville with a cargo of pilchards on behalf of his father, his uncle and Mr Richard Wyche. In 1622, he was back in England, for he tells us that, in April, he " covenanted " to serve Richard Wyche for " five yeares on certaine Con- ditions V one of which, as we learn later, was that of keeping accounts. His salary, i^20 per annum, was exclusive of board and lodging. Mundy is silent as to his employment during the first three years of his contract, and we have no hint as to whether he spent the time in England or abroad. At the beginning of the fourth year of his service, he was sent by a syndicate of copper-contractors (of whom Richard Wyche was one) to Spain, in connection with their busi- ness. He and "one Henry Davis"*" crossed from Dover to " Deepe " and, travelling " post," arrived at Irun a week later. They travelled by short stages, changing horses as many as twenty times a day, " a very painfull imployment to one not accoustomed"*." From Irun, Mundy and Davis went to St Sebastian and thence to Vittoria. Here, George

^ Seep. 136. 2 Seep. 145. ^ Seep. 137. * Seep. 138.

INTRODUCTION H

Wyche, one of Richard's younger brothers, was " Prisoner about the Contracte aforesaid^" How or why the luckless George was imprisoned does not appear, nor has a search among contemporary records produced any independent mention of this Copper Contract. Mundy went on to Valladolid, where a suit in connection with his employers' business was "dependinge in the Chauncery," but he says nothing with regard to the result of his investigations. From other sources, we learn that George Wyche was still a prisoner three years later. If Mundy's own immediate relatives were interested in these proceedings, the fall in the fortunes of his family, alluded to by him in 1638 and 1655, may have dated from this unfortunate venture.

Mundy has a description of Valladolid, " one of the delightsomest seats in the Kingdome of Spaine^ " with " the fairest Place or Placa that I have yett seene-." He also notes the tomb of the Cardinal Duke of Lerma, who was buried there just before his arrival. During the four months that he remained in Valladolid, Mundy witnessed bull-baiting and other public sports, but, though he is discursive as to places and things of interest in Spain, he is curiously reticent about the business which had brought him into the country. After nearly half a year's absence, he returned to England.

Between Vittoria and St Sebastian, Mundy crossed the Puerto de St Adrian, and he describes minutely the Saint's grotto, which he saw " by the light of Candells^" but he does not tell us if he made any stay in Vittoria or paid any further visit to the imprisoned George Wyche. At St Sebastian, Mundy took his passage for England in the Margett, commanded by Captain Molton. On his return he found his master " dangerously sick of the Dropsie."

Mundy's next journey was to Colchester " about some occasions'*." Shortly after he came back to London, his "Master left this life'*" and Peter Mundy was once more

1 See p. 139. ^ See p. 140. ^ See p. 142. * See p. 143.

d 2

Hi INTRODUCTION

thrown on his own resources. Having nothing to detain him in the capital, he " went downe " to his " freinds in Cornewall by Land\" He "remained a while att Home," and next "made a voyage" to St Malo and Jersey, but whether on business or for his own pleasure is uncertain. It is not improbable, however, that he was sent to Brittany by his relatives in connection with the pilchard business. At St Malo, he admired the harbour, and the " very great Strength and traffique'" of the place. He was also im- pressed by the fierce watch-dogs that guarded the town at night. Thence, he went to Jersey and again " returned to St. Maloes and soe horned"

Mundy's active nature would not allow him to settle down to a quiet life. He pined for regular occupation and was also anxious to "see forraigne Countries-." In October, 1627, he addressed a petition to the Directors of the East India Company, praying for employment in India as a factor, and " to proceed thither on their next shippsl" Unfortunately, the petition itself does not exist, but the substance of it is given in the Proceedings of the Court of Directors* on the 31st October, 1627, as follows: — "Peter Mundy late servant to Mr Richard Wich having kept his masters books petitioned for imployment as a Factor, and shewed by his petition that hee lived three yeares at Constantinople, and hath in some good measure gayned the French, Spanish and Italian tongues, besides hee was well commended to bee of Civill conversation. The Court called him in and demaunded what allowance hee had from his Master. Hee answeared 20 li. per annum. They therefore resolved of his intertaynement for five yeare, and to allowe him 20 li. per annum, which hee Conceived to bee too small sallary. The Court left it to his Considera- tion and election to accept or refuse as hee shall thinck meete."

It was natural that Mundy should consider his five

1 See p. 143. '^ See p. 144.

2 Court Minutes., vol. x. p. 1 34.

INTRODUCTION Hii

years' experience under Richard Wyche as of some monetary value, and that he would be loth to start at the same salary as before. Whether his own arguments prevailed, or whether, as is more likely, his influential friends put in a word in his favour, it is clear that the Directors were induced to alter their decision of the 31st October, 1627. On the 22nd February, 1628, Mundy's entertainment as an " Under Factor " is noted in the Minutes, his salary being £2^ per annum^. Moreover, an advance of £^ was made to him for "his better accomoda- tion and setting out to sea."

The Court of the East India Company at this time consisted, among others, of four members, the Garraways and the Harbys, who had direct or indirect knowledge of Mundy's abilities. The two Garways (or Garraways), Sir Henry and his brother William, were both also con- nected with the Levant Company and would know of Mundy's relations with the Wyche family and of his voyage to Constantinople on the Royall Merchant in company with their brother James, in 1617I These two Directors probably supported Mundy's petition, but the Harbys, Job and Clement, could speak from personal experience of the applicant's character and capacity. Job (afterwards Sir Job) Harby was cousin and brother-in-law of Mundy's late masters, James and Richard Wyche, and was one of the executors to the will of Richard Wyche, senior^ The fact that, while in India, Mundy specially requested a friend to convey a letter home to Job Harby seems to show that, in some degree, he owed his appoint- ment to the Harby influence. His connection with the Wyche family, and, through them, with the Harbys, must have lasted for many years. In his "Occurrences, Passages, observations" etc. at the end of his MS., Mundy has a paragraph about his old friends and also a reference to William Garraway*: —

1 See note i on p. 145. ^ See p. 14. ^ See Appendix B.

* This extract explains Mundy's remark quoted in note 7 on p. 156, also pp. 162 and 165. It is unfortunate that the paragraph was not unearthed in time to add to Appendix B.

liv INTRODUCTION

" 1659 and 1660. Mr. NatJianiel Wiche dead in East India and Mr. Wm. Garraivay in Persia. About this tyme newes by letters from India overland from Surat to Agra, and soe to Aleppo, of the Death of Mr. Nathaniell Wyche, who died at Surat about this time twelve month. I have known the father old Mr. Richard Wyche, nine of his sonnes and three of his Daughters, viz. Richard, Thomas, Peter, George, James, Julius, Edward and Nathaniel, all dead, the last within eight monthes of his arrivall in India, being President at Surat. They were twelve brethren, only Henry remaining, and six sisters, three alive\ Allso the Death of Mr William Garraway Agent in Persia, who went from England about the same tyme."

Between October, 1627, when he applied for a post under the East India Company, and February, 1628, when his appointment was confirmed, Mundy "went downe into the Countrie to take leave-" of his friends and spent the Christmas of 1627 at Penryn. In the New Year, he once more journeyed to London " to attend my honourable Imployers will and pleasure-l"

Following his usual custom, Mundy gives a table of distances traversed in the various short journeys recounted in Relation III. and states that "theis several! Traverses... amounteth in all to the some of Miles 6o8o^" so that, before he set out on his first voyage to India, at the age of about thirty, he had covered, according to his own reckoning, 25,312 miles.

With his voyage to India in the Expedition, another period of Mundy's life begins, and the story of his ex- periences in the East will be told at length in volume II. of his Travels.

I have now followed Mundy's career up to the end of his early European journeys, and it will be of interest to remark on his personality as shown in his MS. His prominent characteristics in boyhood and early manhood were love of travel, acute observation, and an insatiable appetite for information of all kinds. He was interested

1 Stt Appendix B. ^ Seep. 144. ^ Seep. 145.

INTRODUCTION Iv

in everything he saw, and recounts details regarding the habits, clothes and customs of the people with whom he came in contact, with the same vigour and picturesqueness as he describes the scenery of the countries through which he travelled and the architectural features that attracted his notice. Thus, he pauses in his story of the journey across Turkey to descant on " Bathes, Besistenes and Canes," all of them strange to an English eye, and digresses to explain the various kinds of punishments adopted by the Turks. And then, to "divert" his readers' minds from such horrors, he passes on to what appears to be the only early seventeenth century account of the " severall sorts of Swinging used in their Publique rejoycings." At Belgrade, he took special notice of the " Bulgarians " [Servians], describing their appearance and clothes, and remarking on their food and marriage customs. At Sara- jevo, too, he is struck with the muscular strength of the inhabitants. Later on, he gives us details of a lazaretto and rules as to quarantine, comments on the disease of goitre, and so forth.

His historical facts are, for the most part, as accurate as his geographical descriptions. He tells us of the revo- lutions at Constantinople in 1617/8, of the rise and downfall of Caspar Gratiani, Voivode of Moldavia, and of the visit of Biirun Kasim, the Persian ambassador to Constantinople in 161 8. The death of Cardinal Boromeo, the siege of Vercelli, the marriage of Victor-Amadeus of Savoy, the exploits of Joan of Arc, the loss of Gascony by the English, the death of the Duke of Medina Sidonia and the Cardinal Duke of Lerma, the murders of Henri IV. and the Marechal d'Ancre, and many other happenings both before and after his journeys are all remarked upon by Mundy with more or less detail.

There are very few allusions to personal experiences in this volume, and, beyond the facts that he contracted an ague in the journey down the Loire, escaped a trick with a copper chain, and found posting across France a "very painefuU employment," Mundy tells us little of himself.

Ivi INTRODUCTION

His library, as far as can be gathered from his MS., was a considerable one for a man of no fixed abode. At the time he wrote his earlier Relations, he had probably had but little leisure for reading, but, by 1650 and 1655 when he revised the earlier accounts of his travels, he had ac- quired a thorough knowledge of Ralegh, Knolles, Holyoke, Blount, Purchas, Gainsford, Grimston and Sandys, whose works he would seem to have possessed as he quotes largel}^ from some of them.

Living at a time of strong religious feeling in England, and probably brought up by his uncle, the Rev. John Jackson of North Petherwin, on the borderland between Cornwall and Devonshire, Mundy frequently exhibits a deeply religious habit of thought, and expresses it after the fashion of his day. At the end of almost every story of his voyages and journeys, he records his thankfulness to the Almighty for preservation from dangers and a safe home-coming; and on his return to England in 1647, he calculates that, in the thirty-six years from 1611, he has travelled upwards of 100,833 miles, and remarks that he has been " preserved from 2000 Dangers." At the same time, Mundy abundantly shows himself by his observations to have been a man of remarkably broad views, and, though apparently a Royalist and an Anglican, he has no gibes against Puritanism, nor, indeed, does he ever indulge in any bitter references to creeds other than his own.

Mundy's energy, perseverance and capacity for work were enormous. Idleness seems to have been abhorrent to him, nor does he appear to have had any expensive tastes or any great love of pleasure and amusement. It troubled him to remain at home " waisting of meanes." His chief delight was to follow his "habitual Disposition of travelling," and certainly he must have gratified his taste almost to the full; the one bitter drop in his cup being his inability to carry out his desire of circumnavi- gating the globe. In disposition, Mundy comes before us genial and tender-hearted, a lover of his fellow-men and a partisan of the oppressed. He has many mentions of his

INTRODUCTION Ivil

*' friends," even in these early voyages, and his champion- ship of the weak is shown by the warmth with which he speaks of the oppressions endured by the Christians at the hands of the Turks.

The great charm, however, of this original man is his transparent naturalness. In his writings, there is no self- consciousness, no striving after effect. He tells his story throughout with unaffected candour, avoiding alike the verbosity of Coryat and the stilted style of Gainsford. The later volumes will reveal him as a man worthy both of respect and admiration.

The Mundy MSS.

Only one complete copy of Mundy's work is known to exist, viz. the MS. volume now in the Bodleian Library, Oxford, catalogued as Raivlinson MS. A. 315. From this volume the present transcript has been taken.

Mundy would seem to have made no notes of his early voyages before the year 1620. In that year he kept a diary of his journey from Constantinople to London. From 162 1 to 1627 he again kept no regular chronicle of his journeys. In 1628, however, while on his first voyage to India in the Expedition, and in 1634, on the return voyage to England in the Royall Mary, he occupied his enforced idleness on board ship in writing from memory the story of his early years, in putting into shape his diary of the events in 1620, and in amplifying his notes on all that had happened during the six years he had spent in India. These various stories he split up into nineteen Relations^, of which three only deal with his early European travels.

On Mundy's return to England, he had a copy made of his book and gave it into the care of Sir Paul Pindar. The original he carried with him to Cornwall, where it was doubtless received with wonder and delight by his friends at Penryn. In the following year, when Mundy went to

1 See pp. 7, 8.

Iviii INTRODUCTION

London to make arrangements for his voyage to China, he left his MS. with his father, " who promised to send itt after mee, Butt lending itt to one or other, itt came not to hand, Soe went to Sea without itt\" No trace of this first MS. has been discovered and Mundy evidently considered it irretrievably lost. The copy left with Sir Paul Pindar happily escaped a similar fate and is now among the Harleian MSS. at the British Museum.

During the voyage to China, Mundy kept a journal " in the Nature off the former^" and on his return to England, finding his original MS. "not to bee procured" he had Pindar's copy " coppied outt againe into this booke, adding and Joyning thereto- " the narrative of the events of the succeeding years. Thus much Mundy tells us in his Preface, which appears to have been written in 1639 or quite early in 1640. The re-copying oi Relations I. to XIX. was probably done under Mundy's own eye as there are additions in the Razvl. MS., not found in the Harl. MS., such as the accounts of staking, gaunching, etc. which he may have dictated to the copyist as the work was proceed- ing. The Hai'l. MS., too, bears traces of careful revision by Mundy. There are corrections in his waiting, but no great additions such as those in the Rawl. MS. The corrections were most likely made either in 1634, from the original MS., or in 1639 when the second copy, Rawl. MS. A. 315, was begun.

In 1640, when Mundy set out on his trading voyage to Holland, Prussia, etc., it is most probable that he took his MS. with him and continued the narrative of his travels in his spare time, unless indeed he only kept rough notes, which he amplified after his return to England in 1647. At any rate, we know that, while at Penryn, early in 1650, he revised the whole of his MS., adding to his title the names of the European countries visited after 1639, ^"^^ inserting, besides many scattered notes, the Supplement to Relation I.^ At Penryn, too, in the same year, he wrote

^ See p. 2. 2 See p. 2 f. ^ See pp. 24 — 40.

INTRODUCTION lix

his first Appendix which contains notes on the following subjects : — " The Courten Voyage ; The Paradox of the Earth's Motion ; The Changes in Ringing of Bells ; The County of Cornewall and Towne of Penrin ; Occurrences at Penrin in 1649."

Four years later, when in London, Mundy was again bent on revising his MS., for, as will have been already seen\ he wrote, on the i6th December, 1654, "My intention is, if God spare mee life and leisure, to Copy outt this booke over againe, as well to rectifie whatt is amisse according to my abilitie, as allsoe to insert many things omitted by mee." This intention of re-copying his book seems never to have been carried out, for, owing to family misfortunes, Mundy was compelled, in 1655, to seek fresh employment, and, in March of that year, he made his third voyage to India. This time we are certain that he had his MS. with him, for the addition to his description of the amphitheatre at Verona, copied from Sandys' Travels, is in his own writing and is dated '' Alleppo Merchant" (the ship in which he sailed to India), '^August 2d, anno 165 5 1" During his voyage to and from India, Mundy probably once again revised his MS. and continued his life-story up to date.

After his return to England, he began his last Appendix of " some Occurrences, Passages, etts. since my last coming home." From 1658 to 1663 he wrote in London, and from 1663 to 1667 in Penryn. He prefaces this last portion of his MS. with the remark, " Having leisure and spare paper I thought it nott amisse to set downe some accidents that have hapned since my last arrivall from India to this Citty which I have either seen or hearde of" The second Appendix bears no evidence of revision and the writing, though still excellent, shows traces of age. The MS. concludes with a copy of the Royal Proclamation after the Treaty of Breda, which " was read in our town in Penrin the eleventh of September Anno 1667."

The MS., a thick folio volume, has no title on the

^ See p. xviii. ^ Seep. 102 f.

Ix INTRODUCTION

cover, is bound in white vellum, and contains, inclusive of the Preface and some leaves inserted and not numbered, 510 foolscap pages. The part done by the copyist, fols. I — III, is in a beautiful seventeenth century clerkly hand, while Peter Mundy's own writing is of an earlier style, more difficult to decipher, but regular and well formed. Of the 247 fols. as numbered by Mundy, 150 deal with India and the East. The MS., which is in excellent preserva- tion, contains 117 illustrations, all apparently executed by the author in and after the year 1639. I^ has besides six engravings and six double-page maps by Hondius. On these Mundy has marked his routes with red dotted lines. All the maps, except that of the World, indicate the journeys described in Relations I. to III. Though Mundy apologises for his illustrations, and says that he has " no skill in portraicture\" most of the spirited pen- and-ink drawings which adorn his work are quite worthy of their place therein. Those, however, which are repro- duced in the present volume are not among his best, and hardly give a fair idea of his skill as a draughtsman. Many of the pictures, as the author tells us, were not "taken att Sight. ..butt long after, by apprehension off such things seene," and were drawn on loose papers which could be replaced if he should " perchaunce cause them to bee better Don^"

Harl. MS. 2286, which has been carefully collated with Raii'l. MS. A. 315, as far as was necessary for the present volume, was, as previously stated, copied from the original in 1634 and left with Sir Paul Pindar. It contains no illustrations, is in an excellent clerk's hand and in good preservation. It has been in the custody of the British Museum since 1759 and was catalogued by Humfrey Wanley for the Earl of Oxford some time before 1726. Wanley's remarks are worth quoting : — Harl. MS. 2286. " A Book in folio, not negligently written, rather seeming to be prepared for the press ; which at the beginning is

^ See p. 4.

INTRODUCTION Ixi

thus entitled, ' A breife Relation of certaine Journies and Voyages into France, Spain, Turkey and East India ; passed and performed by Peter Mundy.' The Author or Traveller, who was of Penem^ in Cornwall, first went into France A.D. 1609, and the next year'-, served in a Merchants Ship as a Cabbin-boy ; from which Station, by degrees, he became employed in considerable business. He dis- covers a good Capacity joyn'd with Veracity ; and divides his Narration into several Chapters, the Contents of which do follow the Title ; of which I shall give the following Abstract, because I remember not that I have seen the Work itself in print." Here follows a Table of Contents of Relations I. — XIX. slightly enlarged from Mundy's " First Table." Wanley concludes his remarks on Mundy's work thus : " Although this Book be but a Copy, it is nevertheless corrected by the Author's hand."

Besides the Raivl. and Harl. MSS. there are some late copies of portions of Mundy's work. The India Office copy, which consists of Relations IV. to XXX. or the account of Mundy's first and second voyages to India, in 1628 and 1635 respectively, was apparently made from the Rawl. MS., for it contains tracings of the illustra- tions found only in the complete work. It was presented to the India Office on the 5th October, 18 14, by Thomas fisher^, F.S.A. This copy will be fully dealt with in the succeeding volumes.

Of the India voyages there are, too, early nineteenth century copies of events during Mundy's residence in India, 1628 — 1634, as told in Relatiojis V., VI. and VII. There is also a copy of part of his voyage to China. These fragments were acquired by the British Museum in 1853 and are catalogued as Add. MSS. 19278 — 19281. They also will be fully dealt with in vols. II. and III.

^ i.e., Penryn.

^ This is incorrect, Mundy went to France in 1608, and began life as a cabin-boy in 161 1.

■^ Fisher was born in 1771 and died in 1836.

Ixii INTRODUCTION

The only other copy known to me of a part of Mundy's work is that contained in Add. MS. 33420, a volume of Collections for the History of Cornwall, made by Thomas Tonkin the Cornish historian (1678 — 1742). This MS. was, for some years, in the possession of the Ley family of Penzance, and was purchased by the authorities of the British Museum from the late Colonel H. H. Ley in December, 1888. Part 4 of the work consists of extracts made by Tonkin from Mundy's remarks on the " County of Cornewall and Towne of Penrin," together with a short note on the author and an abstract of the contents of his complete work. The portion of Tonkin's extract relating to the rising in Penzance in 1648 was reproduced by J. S. Courtney in his Guide to Penzance, and is the only piece of Mundy's writing, as far as can be discovered, that has so far ever been printed. Tonkin is responsible for the statement that Mundy intended to publish his work. He prefaces his extract from the MS. with the remark^ " Peter Mundy being bred up also to the Sea and Mer- chandise from his Youth and of A Rambling Genius has Compiled A Large thick Folio Book Adorn'd with cuts, both drawn and Printed. ...Which Book He intended for the Press had not Death prevented him." Tonkin may have had the authority of the Worths, who then owned the MS., for Mundy's intentions as to its ultimate fate and also for his information that Richard Mundy was the father of Peter. The author himself, however, gives no hint that he contemplated printing the account of his Travels. He tells us, in his Preface, that the diaries of his early voyages were only " cursary " and superficial and " nott soe puntuall as I oughtt or Mightt have Don, never Making accompt to make Much accompt off itt"-." His aim, when he first began his work, was to "keepe my owne remembraunce " and "to pleasure such Freinds Thatt are Desirous to understand somwhatt off Forraigne Countries^." Later, in 1639, he tells us that he intended to re-copy and

1 Add. MS. 33420, fol. 104 b. - See p. 3.

INTRODUCTION Ixiii

revise the whole book, but eventually he appears to have abandoned this idea and only to have added fresh matter in his declining years.

How or when the Mundy MS. passed into the posses- sion of the Worths is, at present, not known. When Tonkin examined it, it was the property of Mrs Dorothy Worth, " Relict of John Worth Junr. of Tremogh\" Mabe, Cornwall. An examination of the wills of the Worth family has revealed no relationship with the Mundys, but, as Mabe is only two miles distant from Penryn, it is reasonable to suppose that the Worths were known to Peter Mundy. Indeed, since there is no entry of his burial in the Penryn registers, he may have ended his days at Mabe and bequeathed his life's work to his friends. As Peter Mundy apparently died intestate, his last wishes as to the disposal of his effects must perforce rest on conjecture.

From the Worths, the Mundy MS. passed into the hands of Thomas Rawlinson, collector and bibliophile (i68i — 1725), by whom it was probably purchased. When the Rawlinson MSS. were sold, in 1734, Mundy 's work was acquired by the Bodleian Library, Oxford, and there it has lain, practically forgotten for nearly 175 years.

1 Add. MS. 33420, fol. 104 b.

I i IKERARll^Sl

m

^

V"

S

• uril,eWorlclf-Vo:n-1S6/i;^c..6-V *

Pfiisiia.Polojiia • %

!'• rJicM'orlhsiJp oflKc

.,jj^<;i.j-jy--

3

FACSIMILE OF THE TITLE-PAGE OF RAWLINSON MS. A. 315

i^Atithors Title)

ITINERARIUM^ MUNDII

THAT IS A

MEMORIALL

OR

SUNDRY RELATIONS OF CERTAINE VOIAGES JOURNEIES

ETTC: PASSED AND PERFORMED INTO SOME PARTS

OF ENGLAND: HOLLAND, FRAUNCE, SPAINE,

ITALIE, TURKY, EAST INDIA, CHINA, THE

ILANDS OF ST. LAURENCE, SUMATRA ETTC:

TO THE SOUTH AND EAST PARTS: OF

THE WORLD FROM ANNO 1611 TO 1639

ALSO2 UNTO SOME PARTS OF DENMARCK PRUSSIA:

POLONIA: & MOSCOVIA OR RUSSIE TO THE

NORTH SIDE OF THE WORLD FROM

ANNO 1639 TO 1648:

BY

PETER: MUNDY:

^ Fol. I of the MS., which precedes the title, contains a double- page map of the World by Hondius, dated 1630. On it are traced in dotted red lines the routes of Mundy's Travels, with red ciphers to indicate the track of his intended Voyages.

^ The second portion of the title is an addition, pi'obably made when the author revised his MS. in 1650. In the British Museum copy, Harl. MS., 2286, the title is, " A Breife Relation of Certaine- Journies and Voyages into Fraunce, Spaine, Turkey and East India,, passed and performed by Peter Mundy."

M. I

{Authors Preface^

PREFACE' BY WAY OF ADVERTISEMENT FOR AND IN. THE READING OF THE FOLLOWING RELATIONS.

Those voyages, Journeies, etts. Thatt befell mee From the tyme off my First Departure From my Parentts^ untill the tyme off my First arrivall from East India^ I did sett Downe together in one booked This Booke, att my comming home, I carried with mee in to the Country^ (The Coppy thereof beeing First taken and left in the Custody off the Right Honble. Sir Paul Pindar Knight"), and att my comming away againe lefft itt With my Father, who promised to send itt after mee. Butt, lending itt to one or other, itt came not to hand ; Soe Went to Sea Without itt, The voyage to China, etts.'' From whence, beeing returned^, having allsoe kept a Journall of thatt voyage in the Nature off the Former", and the Oreginall thereof not to bee procured, I have caused the Coppy afforesaid to bee coppied outt againe into this booke,

^ There is no Preface in the British Museum copy, Harl. MS., 2286.

^ In 1608. ^ In Sept. 1634.

* i.e. Relations I., II., and III., which are reproduced in this volume. ^ To Penrhyn, in Cornwall.

^ For the author's connection with Sir Paul Pindar, see Intro- duction and Relation II.

"^ In 1636. s In December, 1638.

9 This "Journall" is embodied in Relations XXL— XXX. The author's experiences during his first visit to India are described in Relations IV.— XIX.

author's preface 3

adding and Joyning thereto this last voyage and occur- rences \ In the reading whereof lett these FoUowing advertisementts bee observed, beeing Devided into three generall heads, and each off these again into three braunches as Followeth: —

First. That itt consists of three Manner of Writing, viz.,

1. The Most and princopall is Journall Wise: — To say accidentts, passages off every Daies Journey by land, and each Daies sayling by Sea, off which I took butt a Cursary and superccall^ Notice as a Passenger, and. To say truth, nott soe puntuall as I oughtt or Mightt have Don, Never Making accomptt to make Much accomptt off itt. What I Did Was some Whatt aswell to keepe my owne remembraunce on occasion off Discourse concerning per- ticularities off thes voyages. As allsoe to pleasure such Freinds (who mightt come to the reading thereof) Thatt are Desirous to understand somwhatt off Forraigne Coun- tries.

2. Sundry passages recollected by Memory, as From my First setting Forth untill my arrivall att Constantinople^, and here and there some clause or other, butt Not Many, off Which I took nott presentt Notice.

3. Here are in Divers places inserted the reports and Writings off others, as the tables off lattitude"*, longitude, etts. throughoutt this book. For Which I was beeholding unto my Freinds, Seamen, As allsoe Sundry relationes and reports off other Men according as the tymes and places gave some occasion to speak off^

1 This remark seems to refer to the " China Voyage." The author apparently wrote his Preface before making the voyages and journeys described in Relations XXXI. — XXXVI.

2 i.e. superficial. ^ In 161 7.

* The first of these " Tables" occurs in Relation IV. 5 e.g. the extracts from Blount, Gainsford, Sandys, etc. in the author's Supplement to Relation I.

4 author's preface

Secondly, in the Designes or Figures^ there is to bee considered —

1. Thatt they Were nott taken att Sight (Most of them) as they oughtt to have bin, butt long after, by aprehension off such things seene.

2. Thatt I have no skill in portraicture, only I have endeavoured to expresse the Most Meteriall off the things mentioned.

3. They are all drawne on loose papers, slightly pasted in, Which may bee easily taken out againe, because I may hereafifter perchaunce cause them to bee better Don and inserted in the void spaces lefft off purpose, and in the places off the other papers Now there Fastened-.

Thirdly. These three pointts are to bee observed as Well in the reading off this Memoriall as off all others off this kind : —

I. Thatt India Comprehends (under thatt Name) a large extentt. The people Soe Farre Differing in Religion, Customes, habitts, etts., as they are Distantt in place. And the places so various in beasts, Fowle, Fruitts, plantts, etts. as they Differ in Scituation. Therefifore, to bee considered Whatt partt off India is spoken off or Meant, For India properly (as I conceave) is butt one province, Named Hindostan, Wherein (once Dilly) now Agra is the cheiffe seatt^, and From Whence I conceave the Word India is Derived, or From the River Indus^ Butt Now under this Name is encluded From Persia even to China by sea and

1 There are 117 of these "designes or figures" in the Raw- linson MS.

2 Some of the illustrations are gummed on to the text used, and others are interleaved. The " void spaces " are very few.

3 Mundy was in India from 1628 to 1634, during the first year of Shah Jahan's reign, and before he had removed the Court from Agra back to Delhi.

* The latter derivation is nearest the truth. The modern English 'India' is from (Skr.) Smdim, through Persian Hi7idii., Greek 'IvSoi and 'ivdtKT], and Latin India. As also is ' Indus ' through Greek 'Iv86s.

author's preface 5

by land, there lying Many large vast kindomes beetweene, allso Inffinite Number off Hands small and greatt, as Sumatra, Java, the Mollucaes, etts. in the South Sea\ with others Dispersed in those Seas either to the North- ward or South Ward off the lyne.

2. There may bee enquiry made off some thatt have bin in those parts and yett they know of Noe such Matter. Itt is to bee understood thatt either they have nott seene se [? so] not heard, or else have nott regarded. For example, a straunger May live in England Many yeares and perhapps nott know Whither there are any Otters or badgers in the Countrie or noe, because hee hath nott seene Nor enquired affter such, and soe consequently off some Customes, as pressing to Death-, etts.

3. Lett any in the reading off Forraigne relationes (especially this) bee indulgentt and Deliberate in censuring, and not over hasty in reproach. I doe conffesse the Matter to bee Meane and the phrase and Decorum Suiteable, yett full off variety and such as Most part thereoff not (as I conceave) to bee Found in other Writings ; Allsoe, thatt itt is the Fruit off some vacantt houres in those long voyages by sea and on shoare, and the best end and purpose I know thereof is againe to serve to passe away tyme thatt may bee spared, Desiring No Farther estimation thereof thatt [? than] thatt it may bee reckoned among those recreationes Which are accompted honest and laud- able (off Which sort are Musicke, painting, histories, civill

^ The trading places in the southern part of the Indian ocean, e.g. the Malay peninsula, Sumatra, etc., were, in the 17th century, commonly known as the " South Seas."

^ An allusion to the punishment known as the peine forte et dt/re, the torture formerly applied to persons arraigned for felony, who refused to plead. Their prostrate bodies were pressed with heavy weights till they pleaded or died. The first Parliament of Edward I., 1 275, is responsible for its introduction. The custom was not abolished till 1772, although it had been a 'dead letter' for many years pre- viously.

6 author's preface

Discours, etts.). I Doe allsoe conffesse thatt Many things are Misplaced, as some First that should bee last, and soe to the Contrary ; allsoe some things therin mought bee better lefftt outt and others omitted Were better in there place. Thus For Matter and phrase. All this allsoe I could Mend, and When I had Don, even begin againe, butt, as I said, the phrase is sutable to the Matter. Yett, however, lett this one thing breed some better liking off itt, Thatt I have endeavoured to com as Near the truth off the Matters Discribed as possibly I could attain unto by my owne experience or the Most probablest- Relation off others. I have inserted sundry Mappes in severall places of this Booke^ in which you may observe redd pricked lines. Those Doe shew the Countries Wee passed through, the places Wee came unto, and the Way Wee went. Only Where the Way is traced with ciffres, Oes, or nulles, those voyages and Journies Were only intended and not per- formed for certaine reasons, and the way putt Down Which Wee should have gon, as from Macao in Chyna to the Manillas, from thence through the South Sea unto Aqua- pullco on the back side of America, soe overland to Mexico, St. John d'Ullooa etts., Fol. 148^, and the Mappe of the World att the beginning of the booke ; see there Allsoe from Arckangell in Russia upp the River Dweena to Vologda, thence to the Citty of Mosco, Smolensko, Vilna etts. and soe to Dantzigke in Prussia. See Fol. 198^ and the Mappe of Europe att the beginning of the booke allso.

1 The maps inserted in the Rawlmson MS. are seven in number, viz. The World, Europe, Turkey and Arabia, Italy, Savoy, Gaul, and Asia.

2 A spot situated on the east coast of Mexico, north of Vera Cruz, formerly well-known to mariners, but which has now disappeared from modern maps. There is no mention of St John d'Ulloa on fol. 148 of the MS. In the paragraph which explains why Mundy did not com- plete his voyage round the world, he says he intended to go from ' Manilla " to " Aquapullco," and thence overland to " Pueblo de los Angeles."

^ i.e. of the Rawlinson MS.

{Authors Contents.) THE FIRST TABLE.

OF THE CONTENTS OF THE SEVERALL RELATIONES IN THIS BOOKE : VIZ :

Relation I. Of my First Departure From home about Anno 1608 : untill my arrivall att Constantinople in Anno 161 7 and Departure thence in Anno 1620^

Relation II. A Journey overland From Constantinople unto London beegun the 6th. of May Anno 1620.

Relation III. Other voyages, Journeies, etts. occurring since my arrivall att London untill the tyme of my entertaynementt For East India.

Relation IV. Journall of a voyage made in the good Shipp Expe- dition^ burthen 350 tonnes, Thomas Watts Master, in company off thejojiah, burthen 800 tonnes, both bound For Suratt in East India under the Commaund of Captaine Richard Swanley^.

Relation V. Some passages att Suratt since my arrivall there in September 1628 untill my Departure thence For Agra in November 1630 With a Discription of Sundry perticularities in and about Suratt aforesaid.

Relation VI. A Journey offe from Suratt in Guzaratt to Agra in Hindostan, whither Peter Mundy and John Yard were enordered and sentt by the WorshipfuU Thomas Rastell President etts. Councell to assist Mr. William Fremlen, there residing, in the honourable Companies affaires.

Relation VII. A Journey From Agra to Cole and Shawgurre beeing Dispeeded by Mr. William Fremlen aboutt the Companies affaires.

Relation VIII. A Journey from Agra to Puttana on the borders off" Bengala with eight cartts laden With Quicksilver a smalle peece

^ The titles of the Relations vary in the copies at the British Museum and at the India Office from those here given. The discrepancies will be noted under each separate Relation.

^ The copy at the India Office begins with this Relation.

8 THE FIRST TABLE

of Vermillion and som English Cloath For accompt off the Honour- able Company to bee there sold and returnes made As allso to see the estate of the Country and Whatt hopes off Benefifitt by trading into those partts.

delation IX. Reasons alleadged by Peter Mundy beefifore his Departure Agra thatt the sending him for Puttana With the Companies goods may nott only proove to theer losse but is playnely against the Presidentts and Counsells Meaning and intentt.

Eelation X. The proceeding and Issue of the Imploymentt For Puttana.

Relation XL Of Puttana and off AbduUa Ckhaun governour thereofif.

Relation XII. The Returne From Puttana to Agra.

Relation XIII. Discription off the Greatt MogoU Shaw Jehan his comming from Brampore, Where hee lay Warring against Decan, unto his Gardein called Darree ca bag, and so to Agra.

Relation XIV. The greatt MogoU his riding to Buckree Eede his Courtt, Marriage of his two sonnes Favourites etts.

Relation XV. Of Agra : Whatt Notable there and thereaboutts, as the Castle, gardeins, tombes, Festivalls, Customes, etts.

Relation XVI. A Journey from Agra to Suratt with a Caphila con- sisting of 268 Cammells and 109 Carts, Whereon Was laden 1493 Fardles of Indico and 12 Fs. off Saltpeter etts. goodes, Dispeeded by Mr. William Fremlen under the Conduct off Peter Mundy with a Convoy off 170 Peones or Souldiers.

Relation XVII. Some passages and troubles More perticulerly concerning the Caphila afforementioned occurring in the Conductt theroff.

Relation XVIII. Off India in generall and off the Mareene att Swally.

Relation XIX. Journall off a voyage from Suratt to England on the Shipp Royall Mary, Commaunder Captain James Slade, Wherin Went home passengers Mr. John Norris, Cape Merchant, Mr. Henry Glascock, Mr. Thomas Willbraham, and my selff Factors^.

Relation XX. Some observations since my arrivall home From India Anno 1634 untill my Departure thither againe on Sir William Courteenes shippes.

Relation XXI. Journall off a voyage off a Fleet consisting off four shippes and two pinnaces sett Forth by the right Worshipfulle Sir William Courtene, Knight ; the Designe For India, China,

" The Table" in the copy, Harl. MS.., 2286, ends here.

THE FIRST TABLE 9

Japan, etts. on a New Discovery ofif trafifique in those parts,

Devided in to Sundry relationes allsoe Following the Number

afforegoing, and First From England to Goa in East India^ Eelation XXII. Our Departure Goa and arrivall att Battacala,

Where was setled a Factory. Relation XXIII. Since our Departure Battacala in East India untill

our arrivall att Achem on the Hand of Sumatra : our selling off a

Factory there allsoe. With other passages. Kelation XXIV. Our Departure from Achem on Sumatra, our

toutching att Mallacca and arrivall att Macao in China, With

our reception there by the Portuguees etts. passages. E,elation XXV. Our Departure From Macao : and arrivall att

Fumahone, Taytfoo, etts., places att the Mouth off Cantan River

With ourDaungers and troubles there undergon etts. occurrences. Eelation XXVI. From the tyme otf our Departure Tayffoo untill

our arrivall att Macao againe and Whatt trafifick Wee obteyned

there off the Portuguees att last ; etts. passages in the Interm. Relation XXVII. Our Departure From Macao in China, our

toutching att Mallacca and arrivall att Achem on the Hand off

Sumatra. Eelation XXVIII. Since our Departure from Achem on the Hand

off Sumatra untill our arrivall att the Hand off Mauritius and'

departure thence againe. Eelation XXIX. From the Hand off Mauritius unto the Hand ofif

Madagascar or Saint Lawrence, Where Wee Wintred. Eelation XXX. Our Departure From the Hand of Madagascar or

Saint Lawrence, our toutching and reffreshing att the Hand off

Saint Hellena and our arrivall att last unto the Hand ofif Greatt

Brittaine. Eelation XXXI. A Petty Progresse through som parts off England

and Wales. Eelation XXXII. A passage From England over in to Holland

With some perticularities off thatt Country. Eelation XXXIII. A voyage from Amsterdam unto Dantzigk in

the Baltick Sea, With some whatt off Prussia etts. Countries

adjoyning. Eelation XXXIV. A voyage from Dantzigk in the East or Baltick Sea unto Saint Michael Arckangell in Russia, lying on the White Sea, with the return From thence and some small observation ofif

those Northerne Regions.

^ The titles of Relations XXL — XXVL are given, with some variations, in the India Office copy and in the late copy at the British Museum, Add. MSS., 19281.

lO THE FIRST TABLE

Relation XXXV. Of Dantzigk, some particularities of thatt Citty Sett Downe, With my Departure thence and arrivall home to England once againe.

Eelation XXXVI. My third voyage to East India on the Ship Alleppo Merchantt for Rajapore etts.

An Appendix somwhatt Concerning the former Relations as allsoe Matter of exercise and recreation after the reading of soe many tedious voyages and Weary Journies. Penrin the fourth february Anno 1649^

Some Occurrences, Passages, etts. since my last comming home London 9th. August 16582.

Some Occurrences of these Tymes etts.^

COMPUTATION OF MILES TRAVELLED AND SAILED IN THE SEVERALL JOURNEIES & VOYAGES MENTIONED IN THIS MEMORIALL VIZ:

From my First going Forth With Capt: Davis, Anno 161 1, till my arrivall at Constantinople with Mr. James Wiche, 161 7, there hath bin gon in Sundry voyages Journeies etts. somme of

Miles 17394

From Constantinople home by Land with the Honorable Paul Pindar, late Embassador there with the Grand Signior,

Anno 1620 1838

Severall voiages, Journeies, etts. since my arrivall in England, 1620, till I Was bound outt and sett saile For East India, 1628 5880 From London to Suratt in East India in Just six monthes tyme 13713 From Suratt to Agra, the head citty of India by land. Anno 1630 551

From Agra to certaine townes thereabouts and to the River Ganges .......... 180

From Agra to Puttna in Bengala on the River Ganges, by land 400|^ From Puttana backe to Agra Anno 1632 .... 422f

From Agra Downe to Suratt With a Caphila of Indico etts. 1632 598

From Suratt home on the Roy all Mary, Capt. Jas. Slade, Anno

1634 137181

^ This Appendix was probably added by the author when he revised his MS. after the loss of the original of the first part, as stated on p. 2. The appendix is continued up to 1654.

2 These " Occurrences" are continued up to 1660.

3 i.e. from 1660 till 1667.

THE SECOND TABLE II

From London Downe to Penrin and upp againe twice, Anno 1635 880

From England to Sundry ports and Hands in East India, As allso to Macao etts. places in the kingdom of China, August, Anno 1637 17141

From Tayffoo, Macao, etts. in China and East India home, beeing beaten back to Madagascar or St. Laurence there to Winter, Anno 1638 18923

From England, viz. Falmouth, through some parts of England and Wales over to Holland, thence to Dantzigk on the East orBaltick Sea : Anno 1640 1944

From Dantzigk on the Baltick Sea unto Arckeangell in Russia on the White Sea, aboutt by the North Cape alongst the Coasts and in sight of Norwey, Lapland, Fynland, by Way of Lubeck and Hambro : and back againe to Dantzigk, Anno 1641 . 5840

From Dantzigk to London and Downe to Falmouth once again, 1647 1410

From Falmouth to London, from thence to East India, and backe againe to London, in August, Anno 1656 . . . 27900

THE SECOND TABLE.

{Aut/i07'^s I?idex.)

AN ALPHABETICALL TABLE 1 For the finding off sundry par- ticularities Dispersed throughoutt this book and Where this Mark * is you must looke over the leaffe.

[Here follows the author's index of 418 entries, which is not printed. It occupies five foolscap pages in the MS.^]

^ This Index is arranged under the letters of the alphabet, but the words are, nevertheless, not in alphabetical order. There are several additions in a different ink, evidently made at a later date. In many cases, a definition of the word indexed is given as well as its location in the MS. Where these definitions elucidate the text, they have been appended as footnotes.

^ Immediately after the Index three prints ai-e inserted in the MS. The smallest contains the portrait of Thomas Candyssh, the navigator, at the age of twenty-eight. By his side is a portrait of Sir Francis Drake at the age of forty-three. Beneath these two is a picture of a three-masted ship in full sail, with flags and pennants flying.

Following the three illustrations is a double-page map of Europe, by Hondius, dated 1631, with the route of Mundy's voyages and journeys marked in red dotted lines. The reverse of the map is covered with extracts from Blount's Voyage in the Levant and notes by the author, made in Febiiiary, 1650. These are intended to amplify and illustrate his early European travels, and are printed and treated in Appendix A.

SUNDRIE RELATIONS OF CERTAIN VOYAG'S,

JOURNEIES, ETTS., PASSED AND PERFORMED

BY MEE, PETER MUNDY, VIZT.'

RELATION I.

Of my first departttre from home about Anno 1608 nntill

my arrivall at Constantinople in Anno 16 17 and

departure thence in Anno 1620 as followeth.

From Penrin^ in Cornewall, I passed with my father to the Cittie of Roane ^ in Normandie, where wee stayed one moneth, and then retourned home, from whence I was sent to Bayon* in Gascony to learne the French Tongue, where, haveinge remayned one yeare, I came home againe in the yeare 1610.

The 1st. May, 161 1. I left my Parents, and went upp to London with Captaine John Davis^, whome I served as

^ In the British Museum copy of Mundy's Travels, Harleian MS.^ 2286, the title of Relation I. is, " Sundrie Relations of Certaine Journies and Voyages " etc., and the title in " The Table " is,^ " Imprimis my passage with my Father to the Cittie of Roane in Normandie, Anno 1610, and at my returne a Voyage from London to Constantinople."

2 " Penrin, a pretty towne in Corne Wall." Authors Index.

3 Rouen. * Bayonne.

^ This man is neither Captain John Davis of Sandridge, the celebrated explorer, nor Captain John Davis of Limehouse, who was in the East India Company's service ; but it is possible that he may be the John Davis, "son of William Davis of Gracious Street, London, just come from Spain," who was imprisoned in March 1619 for refusing to take the Oath of Allegiance and for affirming the Pope to be the sole authority in ecclesiastical matters in England. See Calendar of State Papers., Domestic Series., 1619 — 1623, under dates 22 March 1619 and 29 July 1625.

14 VOYAGES AND PASSAGES FROM ANNO I

Cabbin boy three or four Voyages, vizt. to Sanlucar de Barrameda^, Cadiz^, Mallaga, etc., and att length was left by him att Sanlucar afore said with Mr. George Weaver^, dwellinge in the howse of Sr Pedro Patinno^ There I stayed some two yeares, from whence I was sent upp to the Cittie of Sevill to remaine with Mr. Charles Parker^*, and from thence I went to Ayamonte*, soe over to Castro Mareen and Tavila^ in Portugall, and back againe to CevilP, where I lived twoe yeares more, and in that tyme attained the Spanish Tongue. From Sevill I came to London againe'' with my first Master Captaine Davis^

I had not bene att home fifteen dayes, but I was sent away with Mr. James Wiche", bound for Constantinople in the Shipp the Royall Mmxhmtt, Captaine Josua Downinge^", with whome went passengers Mr. James Wiche aforesaid my then Master, Mr. James Garroway", Mr. Bartholomew

^ At the mouth of the Guadalquiver, near Cadiz. Compare The Voyage to Cadiz hi 1625, by John Glanville, pp. 6, 35, "The Bay of

Cadiz or St. Lucas St. Mary Port near the Bay of Cadiz was a

lowe shore and more apt for landing of Men then anie place about St. Lucar."

^ " Cadiz or Cales, a towne in Spayne." Author's Index.

^ I have failed to find any contemporary mention of these in- dividuals. Parker's name is omitted in the IBritish Museum copy of Mundy's early Travels, Harl. MS., 2286.

* A fortress at the mouth of the Guadiana.

^ Castro Marin and Tavira are close to Ayamonte, on the Portu- guese side of the river.

" Probably a copyist's error. The author has Sevill in his I?idex and elsewhere in the MS.

'' In January, 1617. ^ See ante, p. 13, note 5.

^ James Wyche was the sixth son of Richard Wyche, a prosperous London merchant, who had twelve sons and died in 162 1. For an account of the family, and the author's connection with Richard, George, James and Edward Wyche, see Appendix B.

I'' For the Sailing Orders of the Royall Marchant, together with a short account of Captain Joshua Downing, see Appe?uiix C.

11 The Garways or Garraways were well-known Levantine and East Indian traders, who gave their name to Garraway's Coffee-house in Change Alley, one of the most famous in the i8th century. James Garraway was probably one of the seventeen children of Sir William Garway or Garraway and brother to Anthony Garraway, who was

UNTILL ANNO 162O 15

Abbott^ Mr. Roger and Mr. Charles Vivian 2, with five or six other Merchants'^. In our Passage wee made sondry Ports, vizt. Gibraltare^ Mallaga^ Alicante", Majorca^

residing in Constantinople in 1617. It is likely, too, that James Garraway was sent to Constantinople in connection with the affairs of Arthur Garraway. This individual was imprisoned during the reign of Ahmad I., and the English ambassadors, Sir Paul Pindar and Sir Thomas Roe both made unsuccessful attempts to recover what had been extorted from him by the Turks. In July, 1617, Pindar wrote to the Levant Company, and "amplie related the ill successe he had had in the prosecuting the suite for the restitution of Mr. Arthur Garrawayes moneys obtaining nothing but delayes, and in the end no Performance." Sir Henry Garraway, the eldest son of Sir William Garraway, a Liveryman of the Drapers' Company, became Lord Mayor of London, and was a Director of the Levant, the East India and the Muscovy Companies. His career is given at length in the Dictionary of National Biography. Two other sons of Sir William Garraway, Thomas (who died in 1625) and WiUiam were among the earliest "Adventurers" in East India Stock. Thomas Garway was said to be the original proprietor of Garraway's Coffee-house, and, under the designation of "tobacconist and coffeeman," was the first retailer of tea. Garraway's Coffee-house, which was twice rebuilt, was demolished in 1873. See The Times 28 Jan. and 20 March 1873.

^ Probably a relative of Mr (afterwards Sir) Morris Abbott, a member of the Levant Company and the owner of the Royall Marchant. Sir Morris Abbott was elected Governor of the East India Company in March 1624. He died in 1644.

2 In July, 1620, Roger Vivian was made free of the Levant Company {State Papers., Foreign Archives^ vol. 148, p. 43 a), and in 1633 Charles Vivian was admitted a "sworn free brother of the East India Company, bound to Sir Morris Abbott" {Calendar of State Papers., Colonial., East Indies, 1630 — 1634, p. 506).

^ All these were " Turkey merchants " trading under the Levant Company.

* "Gibraltar: a town at the straights Mouth." Author's Ittdex. In 1599, Gibraltar is called Jebbatore by Dallam. See Early Voyages in the Levant, p. 11. In the British Museum copy of Mundy's early Travels, Harl. MS., 2286, the head-line from this place until the arrival at Scanderoon is, " Sundry Ports and Places in the Straights."

^ " Mallaga, a seaport, Within the straights mouth." Author's Index. Malaga is called "grand Malligan" by Dallam. See Early Voyages in the Levant, p. 12.

^ " Alicante, a towne in the streights." Author's Index.

'' "Mayorca, a Citty and an Hand." Author's Index. Compare The Journal of Richard Bell, Sloane MS., 811, fol. 45, "In our way to Messena...we past the iselands of Maj and Minyorke and by the Iseland of Sardna."

l6 VOYAGES AND PASSAGES FROM ANNO 1608

Alcadia in Minorca^ Messena^ on Scicillia^, Zante, Scan- darone or Allexandretta, Scio'' neere Smirna, and soe to Constantinople, Att all which places (Alcadia excepted) were English Marchants^, by whome wee were joyfully receaved and welcomed, our passage being very pro- sperous, pleasant and full of various Novelties and delights. Only about Cape St. Vincent there was like to have bene a terrible broyle*^ by the Comeinge in of the Kinge of Spaines Armade amonge our fleete in the night tyme, Wee suspectinge them to be Turkish Pyratts'' as they did us, there being notice of twenty six saile lyeinge about the Straights mouth, the Spanish Fleete consistinge of about Twentie Galleons etc., and our Fleete of about thirty small and greate, bound for severall Ports. But, God bee praised, wee parted friends. Other matters of note in this our passage as I remember are, vizt.

Leghorne is the neatest, cleanest and pleasantest place that I have seene, their houses painted without side in Stories, Landskipps^ etc., with various Coulors, makeing

1 Alcadia is, however, in Majorca.

2 For a description of Messina in 1669, see The Journal of Richard Bell, Sloane MS., 811, fol. 46.

^ Dallam has " Sissillia." See Early Voyages in the Levaiit, p. 17.

* " Scio, a towne and an Hand in the Archepielago." Author's Index. An English Consul was established at Scio (or Chios) as early as 1513. For a description of Scio in 1616, see Lithgow, Painefiill Peregrinations, ed. 1632, p. 102.

^ Minorca is expressly noted in the Charter of 3 James I. to the Levant Company, as being one of the places included in their trading privileges, but there is no mention of Majorca. This would account for the absence of English merchants at Alcadia. The references to this place are omitted in the British Museum copy of Mundy's early Travels, HarL MS., 2286.

^ Instead of "a terrible broyle" the passage in the Harl. MS., 2286, reads, " a verie terrible and bloodie sea fight."

'' The Turkish pirates, or Barbary Corsairs, as they were generally called, were the great obstacles to trade in the Mediterranean at this period.

* The contemporary spelling of landscape, but lantskip and land- skip are more common than landskipp. See Murray, Oxford English

UNTILL ANNO 1620 17

a verie delightfull shewed There they observe a Custome called Prattick-, and is near two dayes journie from Plorence.

Strombolo, neare Scicillia, is a little round, high Hand, castinge forth continuall flames of fire and smoake, not soe well perceaved by day as in the night, with such violence that it carrieth aboundance of stones and ashes out with it^

Dictionary^ s.v. Landscape. The description of the " Landskipps " at Leghorn is omitted in the British Museum copy of Mundy's early Travels, Harl. MS., 2286.

^ Compare Struys, Voyages and Travels, ed. 1684, p. 67, " Leg- horn...is one of the chief Havens in renowned Italy... The City on the out-side appears more magnificent than it is indeed inwardly : The Frontispieces, as well of Privat as Public Buildings being plaisterd, upon which are painted Sea-fights, Histories and Land- schap." Struys visited Leghorn in 1657.

Compare also A JoiirnaU of a Voyage thro^ France and Italy (in 1658), Sloa7ie MS., 2142, fol. 4, " Livorne is a very fine and hand- some towne, though the ill lives of the Inhabitants doe some what defame it. It hath a very fine Port belonging to it, it being all the Port townes belonging to the great Duke of Florence, where reside many English Marchants and men of other Nations which is the cause that it is of the greatest repute for trade of any Port towne in Europe, It is a place of great strength wherein is alwayes a Governour and Garrison to defend the place."

2 Pratique. Permission granted to the crew and passengers of a ship to enter a port, to land, trade, etc. See later on, in Relation II., where the custom is fully described by the author on his arrival at Spalato. Compare Dallam's account of "proticke," Early Voyages in the Levant, p. 19 In 1669, Richard Bell and John Campbell were detained in the Lazaretto at Leghorn for forty days ; The Jourtial of Richard Bell, Sloane MS., 811.

^ Compare Lithgow, Painefull Peregrinations, ed. 1632, p. 398, "We fetched up the little He of Strombolo [in 1616]: This Isolet is a round Rocke, and a mile in Compasse, growing to the top like to a Pomo, or Pyramide, and not much unlike the Isolets of Basse and Elsey, through the toppe whereof, as through a Chimney, arriseth a continuall fire, and that so terrible, and furiously casting foorth great stones and flames, that neyther Galley nor Boate dare Coast or boord it."

In 1628, the Rev. Charles Robson thus describes Stromboli, in his News fi'oni Aleppo, p. 10, "At last we passed by a litle Island some five Leagues before we come to Sicilia, which belcheth out continually huge flames of fire. I did see it vomit up eight times, while we sayled in sight of it : the name of this Island is Strumbola,"-

Compare also The fournal of Richard Bell, Sloane MS., Srr, "We weere becalmed amonge the burninge Iselands for two dayes. They are calld, i Strumbelo, 2 Vulcan, 3 Vulcanello * * * within

M. 2

l8 VOYAGES AND PASSAGES FROM ANNO 1608

The Stones fallinge into the Sea fleete^ on the water and by us are called Pummice stones, of which there is a naturall reason.

Zante a small Island from whence wee have Currence^ of which the Inhabitants reape such benefitt as that they will not affoard themselves so much ground as to Till theire Corne^ being supplyed from the Mayne. This

three or four leagues six or seven little Iselands not Inhabbited, which smooke, but that cald Vulcan most, and now [in 1669] burnes more furiosi)' then Strumbeloe did, which at this day flames much most visible in the night."

1 Old form of " float."

2 Compare Shakespeare, Winter's Tale, iv. 3. 40, " Three pound of Sugar, four pound of Currence, Rice." Gainsford, Glo?y of Etiglattd, p. 40, has, "Xante, an Hand famous for Vallies yeelding 4000 tunne of Gorans every yeere."

^ For Dallam's description of Zante in 1599, and for Covel's remarks (in 1670) on the prevalence of earthquakes in the island, see Early Voyages in the Levant, pp. 18 and 126.

The quaint description of Lithgow, who visited Zante in 1610, is worth quoting, Painefull Peregrinations, p. 64, " Zante was called Zacinthus, because so was called the sonne of Dardanus, who reigned there * * * It hath a Gitty * * * subject yearely to fearefuU Earth- quakes, especially in the moneths of October and November, which oftentimes subvert their houses and themselves, bringing deadly destruction on all * * * This He produceth good store of Rasini de Gorintho, commonly called Gurrants * * » The llanders are Greekes, a kind of subtile people, and great dissemblers ; but the Signory thereof belongeth to Venice * * * And if it were not for that great provision of corne, which are dayly transported from the firme land of Peleponesus to them, the Inhabitants in short time would famish. It was credibly told me here by the better sort, that this little lie maketh yearely * * * onely of Gurrants 160000 Ghickins, paying yearely over and above for Gustome 22000 Piasters, every Ghicken of gold being nine shillings English, and every Piaster being white money sixe shillings. A rent or summe of mony which these silly llanders could never affoord * * * if it were not here in England of late for some Liquorous lips, who forsooth can hardly digest Bread, Pasties, Broth, and (verbi gratia) bag puddings without these currants * * * There is no other nation save this thus addicted to that miserable lie."

George Sandys, who also visited Zante in 16 10, says, Travels, ed. 1673, p. 4, that the islanders traded especially with England and Holland, that they paid yearly " unto St. Mark 48000 Dollars for Gustoms and other Duties," besides " their private gettings, amounting to 150000 Zechins * * * They sow little Gorn, as imploying their grounds to better advantages, for which reason they sometimes suffer, being ready to starve, when the weather continueth for a season tempestuous, and that they cannot fetch their provision, which they

UNTILL ANNO 1620 I9

place is much frequented with Earthquakes, Subject to the Venetians, for which they pay a Certaine Tribute to the Turke that hee would not molest them.

Scandarone or Allexandretta is the Sea port of Alleppo\ some three dayes Journie distant. It is very unwholsome by reason of the huge high hills hindringe the approach of the Sunne Beames, untill nine or ten a Clocke in the morning, lyeinge in a great Marsh full of boggs, foggs and Froggs^ the Topps of the Mountaines continually covered with Snowe, aboundinge with wild beasts, as Lyons, Wylde Boares, Jacalls, Porcupines, etc. Of the latter, there was one killed, brought aboard, and

have as well of Flesh as of Corn, from Morea, being ten leagues distant."

Struys, who visited Zante in 1658, remarks, Voyages and Travels, p. 98, " Sante or Xante * * * on this Island is a City containing about 4000 Houses, or rather Cottages, without chimneys, that they say, is by reason of frequent Earthquakes, of which they are in daily jeopardy."

1 Scanderoon, where the Levant Company had a Consul, was the outlet of the commerce of Aleppo. All the ships trading to the East touched at Scanderoon before going on to Constantinople.

^ Compare Dallam's remarks on Scanderoon in 1599, Early Voyages in the Leva?it^ pp. 28, 30. Compare also News frotn Aleppo (in 1628), p. 11, "Wee arrived in safety at Alexandretta alias Scanderone, which we found full of the carcases of houses, not one house in it. It having been a litle before sackt by the Turkish Pyrats. The unwholesomest place in the world to live in, by reason of the grosse fogges that both discend from the high mountaines, and ascend from the moorish [marshy] valleys. The hills about it are so high, that till ten of the clocke in the morning the Sunne seldome or never peepeth over them."

Among Mundy's notes on the extracts from Blount's Voyage into the Levant^ most of which are given in Appendix A, is the following in connection with Scanderoon : — " Within eight or ten leagues of Alexandretta Sir Weaker Rawleigh placeth the citty of Issus, where Darius King of Persia was overthrowne by Alexander Major, his great and pompous (although unwarlike) army routed, his Wife and Children taken prisoners; see the battaile of Issus, Sir W. R. p. 177: hb. 4 [p. 147 of ed. 1634]. In dicto Booke, lib. 4: p. 175 [p. 145 of ed. 1634], mention is made of the straights of Cilicia where Alexander passed into Persia, was questionless through some part of those mighty high hills near Alexandretta, continually covered with snow, and one overtopping another in height, being part of the Mountaine Taurus, which reckned to begin heere, and the ridge of hills running through divers countries, as India, are named Caucasus, beeing called diversly according to the countries it passeth through ; in the Scripture they are called Ararat."

20 VOYAGES AND PASSAGES FROM ANNO 1608

roasted, proveing very Savourie meate, haveing eaten part thereof myselfe, as also of a wild boare ; great store of Wild fowle, haveing seene a flight of wild Swanns ; aboundance of Fish.

Betweene Scandarone and Constantinople^ wee passed among the fruitefull Islands of Archipielago, and soe upp the Hellespont, in which on the right hand, wee sawe the place Whereon once Troy^ stood. This Hellespont, now called the River of Constantinople-' (for any thinge I could gather), runneth continually one way, vizt. from the Blacke Sea into the Mediterraneum. The mouth of the Black Sea is about twenty miles above Constantinople, where is a small Island or Rocke, on which standeth a Marble Pillar, called Pompey's Pillar^ which, (Tradition saith), hee erected there as the bounds of his Conquest, seeinge

1 In the British Museum copy of Mundy's early Travels, Harl. MS., 2286, the head-line from this point is, "Voyage from London unto Constantinople."

2 All the 17th century travellers in the East write at length on the ruins of Troy. See Dallam, Early Voyages in the Levant, p. 49, Lithgovv's Painefiill Peregrinations, pp. 122 — 125, Delia Valle, Voyages, ed. 1664, vol. i. p. 12 f.

Compare also Struys, Voyages and Travels, p. 78, " Wee sailed into the River of Constantinople, where we found the Sea-Armade of Venice at Troy, which is the place and remnant of the famous Troy so much read of in the Poets of old, although it is hard to judge where the Town has verily stood. All that is to be seen is a Gate which is built of marble, and seems to be exceeding ancient, and a small village with the Foundations of a wall that encompasse the Town seven times."

^ i.e. the Dardanelles. Compare Sandys, Travels, ed. 1673, P- J9f-

* Compare Lithgow's description of Pompey's Pillar, Pai7iefull Pere- grinations, p. 140, " I went to the blacke Sea... where I saw Pompeyes Pillar of Marble, standing neere the shoare, upon a rocky Hand ; and not far from thence, is a Lanthorne higher then any Steeple, whereon there is a panne full of liquor, that burneth every night to give warning unto ships how neare they come to the shore."

For other descriptions of the pillar, see Sandys, Travels, p. 31^ Gainsford, Glory of England, pp. 181, 191, Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 34 f, Tournefort, Voyage into the Levant, vol. ii. p. 113.

When Hobhouse visited Constantinople in 1809 — 1810, there was nothing left of Pompey's Pillar but "a fragment of white marble a Httle more than five feet high and nine feet and a half in circum- ference." Hobhouse, Journey through Albania, vol. ii. pp. 869, 870.

UNTILL ANNO 162O 21

noe more land beyond it. To this place one day divers Merchants resorted for recreation, my selfe beinge alsoe there. The Sea is accompted 250 leagues long and 70 leagues wide thereabouts.

Lastly the famous Port and Imperiall Cittie of Con- stantinople, of which there beinge soe ample and elegant description else where^ (as in Mr. Sands travells", &c.), I forbeare reiteration, only thus much. Sultan Achmatt died att my beinge there^, and his brother Sultan Mustapha seated on his throne*, whoe within three monethes^ upon dislike of his Government, was displaced by the Bashaes®,

1 Constantinople has received full attention from all the early travellers. See the various descriptions quoted by the author in his Supplement to this Relation, added in 1649 — 1650. See also Busbe- quius, Travels into Turkey (in 1555), ed. 1744, pp. 46 — 54; Lithgow, Painefiill Peregrinations, pp. 132 — 139; Delia Valle, Voyages, ed. 1664, vol. i. pp. 24 — 45 ; Thevenot, Travels into the Levant, ed. 1687, Part i. pp. 19 — 28.

^ Sandys, Travels containing... A Description of Constanti7iople, first published in 161 5.

^ On the 22nd November, 1617.

* Mustafa, Ahmad's weak-minded brother, whom he had kept in captivity for fourteen years. Compare Blount's account of this event, Voyage into the Levant, p. I25f, "Now as all bodyes, though never so strong, are subject to blowes from without, and diseases within : so is this Empyre obnoxious to the Persian abroad, and errors of Govern- ment at home; one hath hapned of late years, which hath had pernicious disorder ; that was the mercy of Achmat, to his brother Mustapha, whom he seeing a book-man, and weake, did not destroy; this was contrary to the Othoman custome ; and left a subject for ambition, and disgust, which rather then be without, would make one of waxe if it were possible ; much more dangerous was it to leave one of colourable pretext, where there was so insolent a faction as the Janyzaries : They forthwith served their turne hereof, who else had not beene provided of a King, and so forced to endure Osman, for feare of destroying that line, in whose defect, they fall under the petit Tartars, which they abhorre. This gave them occasion to taste the Blood Royall, whose reverence can never be restored, with- out abolishing the order of Janizaries, which hath been the Sword hand of the Empire."

^ Here the author notes, "Three grand Signiors in three monethes."

^ Turkish bdshd, a grandee. Mustafa was again imprisoned, after a reign of three months, by the Janissaries, who revolted in favour of Osman. In 1622, he was once more dragged from prison, and for fifteen months was the nominal ruler, when he was again deposed in favour of Amurath IV. (Murad IV.).

22 VOYAGES AND PASSAGES FROM ANNO 1608

and Ozman, eldest Sonne to Achmatt\ was established, whoe lived att my comeinge away.

Heere the English Merchants passe verie Commo- diousley with pleasure, love and Amitye amonge them- selves, wearinge our owne Countrie habitt. Provision, fruite and Wyne very good varietye and plenties Heere I remained about three yeares. The second yeare after

^ Compare Grimston's Translation of Baudier's History of the Iniperiall Estate of the Gra7id Seigneurs^ p. 168 f. "Achmat ended his life and Raigne in the yeare 161 7, he left two young sonnes, Osman and Amurath ; He knew by experience that the weight of such a Crowne could not be borne by a Childe, and that the absolute government of the Turkish Monarchie required a man : He called to the succession of his Scepter, his brother Mustapha who had beene fourteene yeares a Prisoner in his Serrail, and made him to taste this sweet change, to come from a Dungeon to a Throne, and from the fetters of tedious captivitie to that power to command the greatest Estate upon the Earth. But the great rigour of his command, and the extravagances of his inconstant humour, made him odious to the Captaine Bassa ; he gained the other three \^pashas\ who drew the Souldiers and some great men unto their party, they unthroned him, put him into his Prison, and set up Osman sonne to his brother Achmat, This example was in our daye : but that which followeth is so fresh, as the newes hereof came when I was labouring about this worke. Osman not well satisfied with the affection of the Janizaries (who are the sinewes of his Estate) and disliking some of the four Bassa's, had an intent to change the Seat of his Empire to Cairo, and to abandon Constantinople ; he prepares himselfe, gathers together as much Treasures as hee could, and covers his designe, with the pretext of a Pilgrimage to Meque, where he said his intent was to accomplish a vow, and to make as great a gift as ever Prince made unto a Temple of what Religion soever. When as he had managed his enterprize unto the day of his departure, when as his Galleyes were readie, and the Bassa of Caire come with an Armie to receive him; the Janizaries were advertised, they runne to the Serrail with the Consent of the Aga, the people are moved, the Captaine Bassa stirres them up, they take the Sultan in his Chamber, kill some great Men in his presence, dragge him into a prison, and there make him to suffer a shameful! death by the hands of an Executioner, having drawne Mustapha his Uncle out of Prison again, and crowned him the second time Soveraigne Sultan of the Turkish Empire."

The news of the deposition of Mustafa and also "that Sultan Ossaman eldest sonne of Sultan Achomet Cham, the grand Signior deceased was elected in his stead " was forwarded to the Levant Company by Sir Paul Pindar and was read in Court on the 15th April, 1618. State Papers^ Foreigft Archives, vol. 148, p. 11.

^ The English merchants resided, for the most part, in Pera, a suburb of Constantinople, where was the house of the English ambassador.

UNTILL ANNO 162O 23

our arrivalP, my Master^ died of the small pox, beinge in tyme of Pestilence, which Customarily visitts the Cittie once in fowre yeares, or five att the most I Soe remained with Mr. Lawrence Greene* untill the departure of the Honourable Paule Pindar^, being licensed by the Grand Signior, and Sir John Eyers^ arriving to supply his placed

1 In 1618. ^ James Wyche. See p. 14.

3 Compare Lithgow, Pai7iefull Peregrinations^ p. 138, " Constanti- nople...is subject. ..to divers Earth quakes. ..And commonly every third yeare the pestilence is exceeding great in that City." Compare also Delia Valle, Voyages^ vol. i. p. 49 f.

* Lawrence Greene, Senior, was a director of the Levant Com- pany at this time, and is frequently mentioned in the Court Minutes. On the 2nd Aug., 1616, it was ordered that ^30 be advanced to Mr Greene, as agent for Mr King, the Company's chaplain at Constantinople. Again, on the 3rd May, 1621, "One Mr. Greene" undertakes to make good any loss to the Company in case the chaplain, Mr Cadwallader Salisbury, should die before the ^50 ad- vanced him should be due to him. Pearson, Chaplains of the Levant Company^ p. 47.

In 1 62 1, Lawrence Greene and Richard James were elected members of a Committee of the East India Company. They "de- sired to be spared, but the Court would in no wise consent." They, however, only served for three months. Lawrence Greene died before 1634. See Calendar of State Papers^ Colonial, East Indies, 161 7 — 1621, pp. 435, 468; 1630 — 1634, p. 486. The Lawrence Greene whom Mundy served for two years, and whom he left at Constantinople in 1620 (see beginning of Relatio7t II.), was probably a son of the Director and identical with the Lawrence Greene, a merchant, who, in 1 64 1, petitioned for a warrant for the transport of twenty passengers and provisions to Virginia, where he had twenty-four servants. Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1574 — 1660, p. 322. For further particulars of this man, see Relation II.

^ Sir Paul Pindar had held the office of Ambassador at Con- stantinople since 161 1. In September, 1616, he had written to the Court of the Levant Company, desiring to be recalled on account of his health, but was urged to remain a year or two longer, with increased allowances. To this he agreed in a letter dated 21st March, 161 7. For further particulars of Pindar, during his embassy, see Appendix D.

^ Sir John Eyre was appointed to fill Pindar's place in 1619 and was recalled in 1621. For details of his appointment and his un- popularity, together with a short notice of the Levant Company at the time of Mundy's connection with it, see Appendix D.

'' The British Museum copy of Mundy's early Travels, Harl. MS., 2286, ends here, and has neither "Computation" of miles nor "Supple- ment" to Relation I.

24 VOYAGES AND PASSAGES FROM ANNO 1608

Computation of Miles travelled in the voyages aforegoeinge as also the distances of some places, one from the other.

Miles

From Penrin to Roane in Normandie is accompted

Miles 300 and backe againe is . . . . 600 From Penrin to Bayon in Gascony is accompted

Miles 480 and backe againe is . . . 960 From Penrin to London by Sea is . . . 400 From London to Cadiz miles 1450 and backe

againe is 2900

From London to Mallaga miles 1590 and backe

againe is . . , . . . . .3180 From London to Sanlucar is . . . , 1430

From thence to Sevill is 60

From Sevill to Ayamonte miles 78 from thence

to Tavila in Portugall is 24 miles . . 102

From Tavila backe to Sevill is . . . . 102

From Sevill backe to London is . . . . 1490 From London to Allexandretta the very bottome

of the Straights is 1460 leagues and . . 4380

From Allexandretta to Constantinople is ac- compted 450 leagues and amounts to , . 1350 From Constantinople to Pompeus Pillar^ att the mouth of the Black Sea is accompted Miles 20 and backe againe is .... . 40

Summa totalis Miles 17394

Author's Supplement'^ to Relation I.

The aforegoinge Relation is only some Voyages etts. recalled to memorye since my first settinge forth, Anno 1608, untill my departure, Anno 1620.

1 See note 4 on p. 20.

2 The " Supplement " to Relation I. was added by Mundy when he revised his MS. in 1649 — 1650. It is in his own writing and is on different paper from the rest of the Rawliiison copy.

UNTILL ANNO 162O 25

Concerning Constantinople, where I remayned three or four years, I tooke no notice of any thing untill my departure thence, and what I have don since is but course and Coursary. Therefore, for the satisfaction of those that desire better Information concerning that great Citty, the Serragho, with the Imperiall Seate of the grand Signeurs, their Habitations, hves, titles, quallities, exercises, worcks, revenues. Habit, discent, ceremonies, Wives, concubines, etts.. Judgements, officers, favourites, Religion, power, governement and tyranny — let them peruse the History of the Serraglio and court of the Gran Signeur, exactly and elaborately written in french by Signeur Michael Baudier of Languedock, translated by Mr. Edward Grymestone, printed in London Anno 1635 ^ It mentions untill yong Amurath the 4th. who reigned A. 1626^. Among other matters thus in briefs

Constantinople standeth on seven hills containing in circuit about fifteen miles, Galata, etts., on the other side of the water not reckoned ; two thousand Mosquees or turkish Churches ; the Greek Christians have forty. Churches ; the Jewes thirty eight sinagogues. The francks or Italians have two Churches on the other side in Gallata. It hath seven hundred and forty publick fountaines. The Armenians have four Churches.

1 The full title of the book is. The History of the Imperiall Estate of the Grand Seigtteurs : Their Habitations^ Lives^ Titles^ Qualities^ Exercises^ Workes, Revenues, Habit, Discent, Cereni07iies, Alagnifi- cence, fudgements, Officers, Favourites, Religion, Power, Uovernment and Tyranny. Translated out of French by E. G., S. A. [Edward Grimston, Sergeant at Arms], London, 1635.

^ The date of the accession of Murad or Amurath IV. is 1623.

^ The author now proceeds to quote Grimston in his own fashion with emendations and omissions. The extracts, as they stand in the English translation of the work, will be found, at length, in Appendix E.

26 VOYAGES AND PASSAGES FROM ANNO 1608

The tribut called Charay^ levied on the Jewes at Con- stantinople, being one Chequeene^ for every male child, amounts to eleven Milliones three hundred chequeene (a mistake I conceive, 1 1 milliones for 1 1 Mille, in french, 1000^). Every greeke here and within three miles of the Citty pay allsoe one Zequeene, amounting unto thirty eight thousand Chekeenes per annum. The description of the Citty is from p. i to p. i8^

Concerning the serraglio, weomen®, treasure, officers, etts., it foUoweth from p. 18 to p. 191, the end.

Allsoe in Mr. Sands® there is some relation of the above mentiond, there beeing the draught or print of the Citty, allso of the serraglio apart, with othersl Allsoe in Mr. Blunt of the turkish moderne Condition*, unto whome I referr you for a more elegant description of the above written.

As concerning their Religion, it is handled somwhat largely by Mr. Purchase in his pilgrimage^.

For the severall habitts used att Constantinople, where most officers and Nationes are distinguished by their

^ Caratch (Arab. khardj\ the tribute or poll-tax levied by the Turks on their Christian subjects. Compare Dumont, A New Voyage to the Levant, ed. 1696, p. 281, "The Greeks... are forc'd to pay a yearly Tribute, call'd the Carache...a perpetual Poll-tax, and exceeds not four Piasters a Man."

^ Sequin. A gold coin of Italy, the Venetian zecchino, worth from about seven shillings to nine shillings and sixpence English money. See Hobson-Jobson, s.v. Chick.

^ The words within brackets are an interpolation by Mundy.

* i.e. of Grimston's book.

^ The author notes here, " Weomen about 300 in the serraglio for the Gran Signior."

" Travels., containing an History of the Original and present State of the 'J'urkish E77ipire, Their Laws., Government., Policy., Military Force., Courts of Justice, and Commerce, etc. etc. By George Sandys, 1st ed. 1615.

'' On p. 24 of ed. 1673.

^ Blount, Voyage into the Levant. See Appendix A for full title.

9 See pp. 297 — 303, 306, 308 — 325 of ed. 1626 of Piirchas His Pilgrimage.

UNTILL ANNO 162O 2/

habits, I have a Httle booke, only of that particuler, painted by the Turcks themselves in Anno 161 8, although no great art therein, yet enough to satisfie concerning that Matter^

An Asper is about a halfe penny, for about 90, or sometimes 100 make a Ryall of eight or a Reichs Doller^; a chequeene worth about Ss. English^. [Signed] Penrin, 2d. February, 1649/50.

Concerning Constantinople and the Seraglio, Thomas Gainesford in his book of the Glory of England, Lib. 2, page 262, saith thus* : — This Imperiall place looketh with a more Mareschall^ countenance then other Citties. Con- stantinople, otherwise called Stamboll, the beautifull, Hath a handsome and formall triangle of a wall. The first part reacheth from the Seven Towers to the Seraglio, some three English miles. The second from the Seraglio to Porto del Fieume, a little more, and both towards the Sea, which runneth one way into Euxinum and another way to encounter a prettie fresh River on the North of Pera. The third overlooketh the feilds of Thracia with a greater Compasse and strength, because it hath a double Wall and openeth three or four gates, as Adrianopli, Gratianopoli, the tower gate, etts., into the Country*', the

1 It is a matter for regret that this " Httle booke" was not preserved with the author's MS.

2 Fr. aspre, It. aspero, lit. ' white money.' A small silver Turkish coin, of which 120 are reckoned to the piastre, now only a money of account. Murray, Oxford English Dictionary.

^ See note 2 on p. 26.

* For the complete title of Gainsford's Gloty of England and the full and correct rendering of the passages abstracted by Mundy, see Appendix E.

^ Gainsford has " majesticall."

6 For the twenty-five gates at Constantinople, see Sanderson's Voyage in Purchas His Pilgrimes, ed. 1625, Part ll. Book ix. p. 1629.

28 VOYAGES AND PASSAGES FROM ANNO 1608

walles orderlie, beautified with square towers of hard stone whose equall distance makes a reasonable shew : the goodhest Harbour in the world, twentie fathom deepe, close to the shores of both citties, conteyning ten english miles in circumference ; much Wast ground within.

The Seraglio is the pallace of the Gran Signior in- closing as much ground as St. James parcke : Large Courts : Spacious gardeins, enbattled walles, stored with Artillerie, divers manner of Structures, which indeed seeme severall pallaces, among whome there is one called a Caska^ (or Cheeaskee") without the wall of the seraglio, close to the water side, where hee accustometh to take his gallie (or Kaeeck^), of the delicatest and rarest presence that ever I beheld, for it is a quadrat of seven arches on a side cloisterwise, like the Rialto walk in Venice, and in the middest riseth a Core* of three or four Roomes with Chimneys whose mantle trees^ are of silver, curiously glazed, protected with an Iron grate all guilt over most gloriously. The whole frame soe set with Opalls, Rubies, Emeralds, burnisht with gold, painted with flowers and graced with Inlaid worcke of porphiry, marble, Jett, Jasper and delicate stones, that I am perswaded there is not such a bird cage in the world. Under the walles are stables for sea horses, called hippopotamie, which is a monstrous beast taken in Nilus : Elephants, tigres and Dolphins : Sometimes they have Crocodiles and Rinoceros. Within are Roebucks, white partridges, and turtles, the bird of

1 Kiosk. Turk, and Pers. kushk^ F. kiosqiie^ a pavilion, villa, portico. Compare Sanderson's Voyage in Pu?'chas His Pilgrinies^ Part II. Book ix. p. 1626, "Sultan Morat [Murad, Amurathj...hath built... two faire Lodgings, or as we may say Banqueting Houses, which they call Chouskes."

2 Mundy's interpolation.

3 Mundy's interpolation. Caique, Turk, kdik, the small skiff used at Constantinople.

* i.e. a central building.

^ Beams across the opening of the fireplaces.

UNTILL ANNO 162O 29

Arabia, and many beasts and foule of Aphrica and India. The walkes are shaded with Cipresse, Cedar, turpentine^ and trees which wee only know by their names, amongst such as afford sustenance, as figgs, almonds, olive, pome- granetts, Lemmons, Orenges, and such like, but it should seeme, they are here as it were inforced, and kept in order with extraordinary dilligence : for the sunne kisseth them not with that fervency, as may make them large, or ripen in their proper kinds.

The Citty is very populous towards the Harbour. The Bisisteene^ Bashaws houses, mosques. Conduits, tombes and monuments, are even as it were a storehouse of magnificent worckes : And when I read, that Constantine unplumed Rome, and as it were unplumed all the world, I cannot find the perticulers in my Inventory, for the Cheifest structures now are the great Seraglio, the lesser Seraglio, the Seventowres, the double wall, divers Bashaws houses, the mosques or temples, among whome the Sophia, Soliman and Amurath, are indeed heapes of Ostentation and fabriques of great delight, the Patriarchs house ; certaine balneas or bathes ; aquaducts ; Constantines pallace ; and the towres on the walles, to these you may adde the Besistene, a place like our Exchange, for varietie of merchandise, markett of Virgins, Selling of Slaves, doucts under ground fenced with Iron gates to Secure their treasure, to prevent the fury of the Janizaries, extremity of fire and earthquakes, to whose violence the Citty is many tymes Subiect.

The next division is Gallata, over against it divided only by the Sea.

The third part Pera :

1 i.e. the pistacia terebinthns, which yields the turpentine known as Cyprus Turpentine, Chian Turpentine and Scio Turpentine.

2 Turk, bazistan. market.

30 VOYAGES AND PASSAGES FROM ANNO 1608

The last quarter of this division is a towne in Asia called Scutaro.

Thus I confesse, if on the towers of the Amurata, or battlements of the Sophia, you beheld all at once, as one united body, it would equall, if not surpasse London, for spaciousnesse of ground, Some monuments divers pallaces and howses ; but yet come no way neare my satisfaction, for here is Neither good lodging, proportionable fare, free recourse, gracious entertainement, true religion, secure abiding, allowable pleasure, Orderly government, Or any thing wherein a Noble citty is made glorious indeed : Thus much for Constantinople.

The author was there as I gather by his book in Anno 1607. Page 35 lib. i.^

Of Constantinople^ and the Serraglio, there is somewhat said in the five foregoing sides^, being the relation of others ; but for my owne observation I tooke no perticuler notice, as elce where I have said. Only I can remember, viz.

Imprimis. That once I walked alone from Cassum

^ This last remark is Mundy's own note.

2 Preceding these remarks Mundy quotes extracts from Sandys' Travels. These he gives, for the most part, correctly, without any notes or interpolations of his own. In many cases, however, he breaks off in the middle of a sentence and gives no hint of the omission. Therefore, for the sake of clearness, the passages extracted by Mundy have been corrected from Sandys' work, and will be found, with the quotations from Grimston and Gainsford, in Appendix E.

Following the extracts from Sandys, is a double-page map of Turkey and Arabia, with Mundy's sea and land routes marked in red dotted lines. Some of the places are also lettered in red, and remarks under these letters are found on the reverse of the second leaf. The map bears no name or date, but contains the portrait of Sultan Muhammad III. (1596 — 1603). On the reverse of the first leaf are the author's own comments on Constantinople (added in February, 1650), which are now given in the text. The notes on the reverse of the second leaf of the map have no connection with the story of the author's Travels, and, consequently, have not been printed.

^ The author alludes to his extracts from Grimston, Gainsford and Sandys. See ante, pp. 25 — 30, and Appendix E.

UNTILL ANNO 162O 3I

Basha^ at the West or end of the Citty, as farre as Yedee- cula or the Seven Towers^, where I saw the double wall (that crosseth over from the Haven to the Hellespont), one within and higher then the other, and a pretty distance from each other. I conceaved them treble, accompting the Innermost wall of the ditche for one, all compleated with

1 The history of this suburb, situated between Constantinople and Galata, is given by Evhya Efendi, who was born in 161 1, as follows : — " In the time of the infidels, Kasim Pasha was a monastery called Aya Longa, but Muhammad II. converted it into a Moslem burying ground.... The town of Constantinople growing too narrow for the throngs of people, the great monarch Sultan Sulaiman commanded his vazir, the conqueror of Napoli (di Romania), Kasim Pasha,... to build the suburb called now {circ. 1631] Kasim-pasha. It is in the

jurisdiction of the Maula of Galata There are one thousand and

eighty-five walled houses with gardens." Travels in Europe etc. in the Seveftteejtth Century, by Evliya Efendi. Eng. trans, ed. 1834, vol. I. Part ii. p. 43. The description is continued up to p. 49. Compare Thevenot, Travels into the Levant, ed. 1687, Part i. p. 27, ^' Cassum-pasha, which seems to be a great Village ; there by the water side is the Arsenal... from thence you come to Galata, separated from Cassumpasha only by the burying places that are betwixt them." See also Le Bruyn, Voyage au Levant, ed. 1725, vol. i. p. 171.

For a description of Constantinople in 1604, see De Bauveau, Relation jour7taliere du Voyage du Levant, pp. 37 — 75.

2 The Seven Towers, Yedi Kiile, at the S.W. angle of Constanti- nople. Three of the towers have disappeared, and the whole building is now in a ruinous condition. It was once a state prison.

Compare the following allusions to this building: —

1596. "A fort that is fortified with seven Towers, called by the Turkes Jadicule... where a garrison of souldiers is kept." Moryson, Ltinerary, ed. 161 7, p. 263.

1600. "Yedi Cula. The gate of the seven Toures : for so many there are together, neere thereunto, built of the Ottoman Princes, where it is said, they have in time past put their Treasure." Sander- son's Voyage in Pitrchas His Pilgrimes, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1629.

1616. " Upon the west corner of the Citty there is a strong Fortresse, fortified with seaven great Towers, and well furnished with munition, called by Turkes Jadileke." Lithgow, Painefull Peregrinations, p. 135.

1701. "The Seven Towers, now a prison for persons of quality... but antiently the Porta Janicula of Constantinople." Chishull, Travels in Turkey, p. 48.

1810. "Although four only of the Seven Towers have remained entire... the fortress still retains the names of Efta-Coulades in the Greek and Yedi-Kouleler in the Turkish language, both of them significant of the former number of its conspicuous bulwarks." Hobhouse, Jour7iey through Albania, vol. ii. pp. 938 — 940.

See also Sandys' description in Appendix E ; Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 43 ; Thdvenot, Travels i?ito the Levant, Part i. p. 20.

32 VOYAGES AND PASSAGES FROM ANNO 1608

battlements and towers^ In the said wall I saw an arche made or dambd upp. They say on this occasion : — That it was the gate by which the Citty was entred and Won from the Christains, and that there is a Prophecy among- the turcks that it shall bee lost againe by the said gate^.

Secondly: I was with others at Atmaidan, Hippodrom or Horseplace^, to see the gran signior, Sultan Achmet,

^ The author was right in his first surmise. The Hne of defence was a triple wall with a double row of towers. The walls were erected by Constantine the Great, and were partly rebuilt by Theodosius and his successors.

Compare the description by Evliya Efendi, Travels in Europe, vol. I. Part i. p. 11 f, who says (in 1634), "This triple row of walls still exists, and is strengthened by 1225 towers." He adds, however, that the masonry had fallen into such decay that " waggons might be anywhere driven through the walls." These ravages were repaired in '1635.

For the accounts of other travellers, see Sandys' Travels in Appendix E ; Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 25 ; Th^venot, Travels into the Levant, Part i. p. 20; Tournefort, Voyage i?ito the Levant, ed. 1718, vol. i. p. 349; Hobhouse, Journey through Albania, vol. ii. PP- 936—937-

2 The Turks gained an entrance into Constantinople, in 1453, by the Wooden or Circus Gate, which had been walled up for two centuries previously, on account of an ancient prophecy, and reopened during the siege for the purposes of a sortie. It was, however, the Golden Gate that was walled up by the invaders, in consequence of a superstition that through it the future conquerors of Constantinople should enter the city. For a similar Turkish prophecy with regard to the Golden Gate at Jerusalem, see Purchas His Pilgrimes, Book viii. ch. 8, p. 1324.

^ At-maidan. Compare the description of John Sanderson in 1602, Purchas His Pilgri7nes, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1627: — "The greatest and most famous spacious place of the Citie is that which in time past of the Greeks was called Hippodromo, and now of the Turkes Atmaidan, which is as much as to say, both in the one and the other Language, running of Horses, for there they did and doe runne them. In time past it hath been much more greate, but the many Palaces (that divers great men in processe of time have built) hath lessened it."

Compare also Grimston's description, History of the Iniperiall State of the Grand Seignieurs, p. 76: — "The Hippodrome is a great place in Constantinople, about fourscore fathome long and fortie broad, artificially built upon a great number of Pillars and Arches which support it strongly, and keepe it from drowning by the waters of the Sea, which run under it, by certaine Channels which give it entry: It was the ancient mannage and course for Horses as the word doth signifie....This place is called at this day Atmeidon, that is to say Mannage."

For other accounts of the At-maiddn, see the extract from Sandys'

UNTILL ANNO 162O 33

ride in pomp to one of his Mosques or Church : Where among other monuments I remember I saw three brasen serpents wreathed together^ : allsoe another Hke a pira- midis^.

Travels in Appendix E. See also Delia Valle, Voyages^ vol. i. p. 37 f. ; Thevenot, T?-avels hito the Levant^ Part i. p. 22 ; Tournefort, Voyage ijito the Levajtt, vol. i. p. 361 ; Le Bruyn, Voyage au Levant^ vol. i. p. 158; Hobhouse, yi9Z/r;z^ through Albania^ vol. ii. p. 950 f.

^ The column of the Three Serpents, said to have formerly sup- ported the golden tripod of the priestess of Apollo of Delphi.

Compare the following accounts of this column : —

1594. "This Piazza hath also another Pillar... of Brasse made with marvellous art in forme of three Serpents wreathed together with their mouthes upwards, which is said, was made to inchant the Ser- pents that on a time molested the Citie." Voyage of John Sanderson in Picrchas His Pilgrinies, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1627.

161 5. "A bronze column composed of three Serpents of the same metal interlaced with each other, whose three heads extend beyond the summit forming, instead of a capital, a regular triangle. The tales of the old wives aver that this column was made by a Magician, and that by the enchantment with which he endowed it, the town was freed from the number of Serpents which then infested it." Delia Valle, Voyages^ vol. i. p. 38 (translated from the French).

1634. "On the wonderful Talismans within and without Kostan- tineh... Seventeenth talisman. A sage named Surendeh, who flourished in the days of error, under King Puzentin, set up a brazen image of a triple-headed dragon {azhderhd) in the Atmaidan, in order to destroy all serpents, lizards, scorpions, and such like poisonous reptiles : and not a poisonous beast was there in the whole of Makedoniyyah. It has now the form of a twisted serpent, measuring ten cubits above and as many below the ground. It remained thus buried in mud and earth from the building of Sultan Ahmed's mosque, but uninjured, till Selim II,, surnamed the drunken, passing by on horseback, knocked off with his mace the lower jaw of that head of the dragon which looks to the west. Serpents then made their appearance on the western side of the city, and since that time have become common in every part of it. If, moreover, the remaining heads should be destroyed, Istambol will be completely eaten up with vermin." Evliya Efendi, Travels in Europe^ vol. I. Part i. p. 19. Tournefort, Voyage into the Levant, vol. i. p. 380, says that the two remaining heads were taken away in 1700.

See also Sandys' Travels, ed. 1673, P- 27; Thevenot, Travels into the Levant, ed. 1687, Part i. p. 22 ; Chishull, Travels in Turkey, p. 41 ; Le Bruyn, Voyage au Levattt, vol. i. p. 158.

^ The author refers to the Egyptian Pyramid set up by Constantine to mark the goal in the chariot races. Compare the description of the column by Tournefort, Voyage into the Levant, vol. i. p. 379 : " The- Obelisk of Granate or Thebaick Stone is still in the Atmeidan : it is; a four-corner'd Pyramid, of one single Piece, about fifty foot high, ter- minating in a Point, charg'd with Hieroglyphicks, now unintelligible."'

See also for other accounts, Voyage of John Sanderson in Purchas

34 VOYAGES AND PASSAGES FROM ANNO 1608

Thirdly : I walked another tyme alone as farre as Aurat Bazar, or the market of Weomen^ and there I saw the Historicall pillarl

Fourthly : I saw another High columne of marbled It stoode (as I take it) towards the Haven, bound about

His Pilgrinies, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1627 ; Delia Valle, Voyages^ vol. i. p. y] ; Thevenot, Travels into the Levant^ Part i. p. 22 ; Dumont, A New Voyage to the Levant^ p. 151; Le Bruyn, Voyages au Levant^ vol. i. pp. 158 — 159 ; Chishull, Travels in Turkey^ p. 40.

^ Avret-bazar, about one mile west of the Hippodrome. The district is still so called.

"A large and spacious place... towards the Port of Selimbria, called by the Turkes Aurat Bazar (which is as much to say, the market place of women, for thither they come to sell their Workes and Wares)." Voyage of John Sanderson in Purchas His Pilgrimes, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1629.

^ So called from the military scenes sculptured on its base. The pedestal now only remains.

Compare the description of the Historical Column by Busbequius (Busbek) in 1555, Ti'avels into Turkey^ p. 49, "Constantinople doth gratifie us with the Sight of two memorable Pillars; One... in the Forum, called by the Turks, Aurat-basar, i.e. The Womens Court, wherein, from Bottom to Top, is engraven the History of a certain Expedition of one Arcadius, who built it, and whose Statue, for a long time, stood on the Top of it. And yet it may rather be called a Stair-case, than a Pillar, because it goes winding up like a Pair of Stairs."

Evliya Efendi in his account " of the wonderful Talismans within and without Kostantineh," Travels in Etu^ope, vol. I. Part i. p. 16, gives the following interesting legend in connection with the Historical Column : — " First talisman. In the Avret-Bazari (female slave- market), there is a lofty column (the pillar of Arcadius) of white marble, inside of which there is a winding staircase. On the outside of it, figures of the soldiers of various nations, Hindustanies, Kur- distanies, and Multanies, whom Yanko ibn Madiyan vanquished, were sculptured by his command ; and on the summit of it there was anciently a fairy-cheeked female figure of one of the beauties of the age, which once a year gave a sound, on which many hundred thousand kinds of birds, after flying round and round the image, fell down to the earth, and being caught by the people of Rum (Romelia), provided them with an abundant meal. Afterwards, in the age of Kostantin, the monks placed bells on the top of it, in order to give an alarm on the approach of an enemy : And subsequently, at the birth of the Prophet, there was a great earthquake, by which the statue and all the bells on the top of the pillar were thrown down topsy-turvy, and the column itself iDroken in pieces : but, having been formed by talismanic art, it could not be entirely destroyed, and part of it remains an extraordinary spectacle to the present day."

^ The Burnt Column (Jemberli Tash).

UNTILL ANNO 1620 35

in Severall places with Hoopes or bands of Iron^ by reason that tyme had weakned and dissolved the very veines of it, soe that it appeared with great Crackes in sundry parts, and, but for those bands, would fall and occasion much Hurt either to men or buildings^.

FiftJily : I was allsoe in Sancta Sophia^ and other Turkish Mosques^

Sixtly : I was in the serraglio^ within the second

1 The author is alluding to the copper bands covering the joints of the several pieces of porphyry of which the column is composed.

2 Compare Busbequius, Travels itito Turkey^ p. 49, "The... Pillar, over against the House the German Ambassadors used to lodge in, the whole Structure, besides the Basis and the Chapiter, consists of eight solid Marble {sic) of Red Porphyry Stones, so curiously joined together, that they seem but one continued Stone. For, where the Stones are jointed one into Another, upon that Commissure, there is wrought a circular Garland of Lawrels round about the Pillar, which hides the jointing so that they which look upon it from the Ground, perceive no jointing at all. That pillar hath been so often shaken by Earthquakes, and so battered by Fires happening near it, that it is cleft in many Places, and they are forced to bind it about with Iron Hoops, that it may not fall to pieces."

Compare also the description of Evliya Efendi, Travels in Europe, vol. I. Part i. pp. 16, 17, " Second talisman. In the Tauk-Bazar (poultry- market) there is a needle-like column (the pillar of Theodosius) formed of many pieces of red emery {siinipdreh) stone, and a hundred royal cubits \zird Jiialiki) high. This was damaged in the earthquake which occurred in the two nights during which the Pride of the World was called into existence; but the builders girt it round with iron hoops, as thick as a man's thigh, in forty places, so that it is still firm and standing. It was erected a hundred and forty years before the era of Iskender, and Kostantin placed a talisman on the top of it in the form of a starling, which once a year clapped his wings, and brought all the birds in the air to the place, each with three olives in his beak and talons."

2 Erected in a.d. 325, burnt down in 404, rebuilt in 415, again burnt in 532, once again rebuilt by Justinian in 538 and restored by him in 568. For a long and detailed description of the Mosque of St Sophia and the many marvels worked within its precincts, see Evliya Efendi, Travels in Europe, vol. i. Part i. pp. 55 — 65. See also Busbequius, Travels into Turkey, p. 46 ; Sanderson, Voyage, in Purchas His Pilgrimes, Book ix. ch. 16, pp. 16 — 26; Yioh\vo\!i's,&,Jour7iey through Albania, vol. ii. pp. 968 ff.

* e.g. the Mosques of Bajazet II. [Bayazid], Sellm I., Sulaiman, Ahmad, etc.

^ i.e. the Palace of the Osmanli Sultans. Evliya Efendi, in his description of the Seraglio, Travels in Europe, vol. I. Part i. pp. 49, 50, says, " Sultan Muhammad surrounded this strongly fortified palace

3—2

36 VOYAGES AND PASSAGES FROM ANNO 1608

courts at the tyme Sir Paul Pindar was to come for England and Sir Jno. Eires was com over to supply his place of Embassador^, when both of them went to kisse the gran signiors Hand or sleeve, the former to take his leave and the latter to bee admitted in his roome. Where the present brought by the new Embassador was laid to the open view of all men (on the greene)^ Then was there a turkish bankett, or meal, prepared for the attendants (on the floore)*, with which wee had noe sooner don,

with a wall that had 366 towers, and 12,000 battlements; its circum- ference being 6,500 paces, with 16 gates, great and small.... There was no harem in this palace ; but one was built afterwards, in the time of Sultan Sulaiman." See also the accounts by Gainsford and Sandys in Appendix E ; and Tavernier, Collections of Travels, ed. 1684, vol. ii., "A new Relation of the inner part of the Grand Seignor's Seraglio," pp. i — 91.

1 The Arz-oda, Hall of Audience, erected by Muhammad II. In this enclosure all great ceremonials took place.

Tavernier, in his description referred to in the previous note, has a chapter, pp. 35 — 43, " Of the Hall wherein the Grand Seignor gives Audience to Forein Ambassadors, and the manner how they are receiv'd." He, however, places the Hall in the third court of the Seraglio.

^ See p. 23, and Appendix D.

3 " Dans le mesme temps que le Grand Seigneur fait les presents, on estalle ceux des Ambassadeurs." Du Loir, Voyages, p. 84.

* Compare the account of " Ambassadours entertaynment and audience in The Grand Signiors Serraglio" by Master Robert Withers in Put'chas His Pilgrijnes, Book ix. ch. 15, p. 1585, "When it falleth out that an Ambassadour from any great King is to kisse the Grand Signiors hand, it must be either upon a Sunday or upon a Tuesday... and then the Vizier commandeth that there be a great Divan, which is, by calling together all the Great men of the Port... who are... commanded... to go every one to his ordinary place in the second Court, and there to stand in orderly rankes...the Ambassadour... is set face to face close before the chiefe Vizier upon a stoole covered with cloth of gold ; and having for a while complimented and used some pleasant discourse together, the Bashaw commandeth that the dinner bee brought.... And so the Ambassadour, and the chiefe Vizier, with one or two of the other Bashawes doe eate together.. ..They having dined, the Vizier entertayneth the Ambassadour with some discourse till such time as the Ambassadours people have also dined.... And then the Ambassadour is called by the Master of the Ceremonies, by whom hee is brought to the Gate, whereat the Capi Agha \kdpi dgha, chief door-keeper] standeth with a ranke of Eunuches, which Capi Agha leadeth him to the doore of the Roome where there doe stand two Capoochee Bashees \_kdpiji-bds/ii, chamberlain] ready, who take the

UNTILL ANNO 162O 37

but our attendants (turcks) fell to scambling and catchinge of what was left, that, in a manner, they tumbled one over the others Nose in a platter of Peelaw\ perhaps !

Seve7ithly : I have bin in their bathes" and besistenes^ Christians churches^ and Jewish sinagogues'^: allso in the old pallace of Constantine", where, among other a[nimals], I saw a terrible great lyon {somwhat tame) playing with a little dog.

Eightly: Concerning the Haven. It is soe Secure

Ambassadour, the one by one arme, and the other by the other, and so leade him to kisse his Highnesse hand." See also Du Loir, Voyages^ pp. 82 — 89.

1 Pilau. Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. in, gives a similar de- scription of the behaviour of the attendants at a banquet given to the French Ambassador. See also Du Loir, Voyages, p. 85.

2 For the principal baths of Constantinople, vi'ith their names, see Evliya Efendi, Travels in Europe, vol. I. Part i. pp. 179 — 181. He estimates the number of public baths in 1634 as over three hundred. See also Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 45, and Thevenot, Travels into the Leva?it, Part i. p. 31 f.

^ See p. 29. Compare the Voyage of John Sanderson in Piirchas His Pilg7'imes, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1628, "There is in the chiefest places for Traffique of the Citie, two Basistans, which are certayne Buildings four square, high, and made round at the top, in the forme of great Lodges covered, each of which have foure Gates, opening upon foure streets, round about garnished with shops stuffed with all rare and exquisite Merchandize."

* See p. 25. Compare the Voyage of John Sanderson in Purchas His Pilgrimes, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1627, "The Patriarch of Greeks, Meleto...told me that there is in Constantinople one hundred Christian Churches, most assuredly within the citie and Suburbs; I take it there are more."

^ See p. 25.

" Compare the following allusions to Constantine's Palace :

" The ruines of a Pallace upon the very wals of the City called the Pallace of Constantine, wherein I did see an Eliphant." Moryson, Itinerary, p. 263.

" On the first Hill is to bee seene, beginning from the West towards the Port of Andranople, a fragment standing in memory of the old Emperiall Palace with certayne Galaries, wast roomes, and pillers within it selfe, doth well shew the great power of Time, the destroyer and overthrower of all, that a Prince of the world his Palace is now become a Lodge for Elephants, Panthars, and other Beasts." Sanderson, Voyage, in Purchas His Pilgrimes, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1625.

"At the third Angle, which is at the bottom of the Port, on the Land side, are the Ruines of Constantine's Palace." Thdvenot, Travels into the Leiuint, Part i. p. 20

38 VOYAGES AND PASSAGES FROM ANNO 1608

from winds and soe commodious deepe, even to the very shore, that our EngHsh shipps lay their broad sides to the Custom house key^, which is so contrived, the outer part next the shippes much higher then the other, soe that the goods which they discharge, as balles of Cloath, barills of tynne, Spicery, etts., is with Httle labour conveyed in to the said Custom house, there beeing farre more imported then exported, otherwise little advantage. Venetian Argosies, or shippes, lay their Stemmes on the Dunghills on Galata side. Here are a multitude of peramees^ or ferriboat, sundry sorts of other vessells, among the rest a CaramsalP, built of such a forme, that I have heard Sea- men say that their sternes were Neare as high as the Mayne topp of their great shipps.

1 Compare Moryson, Itmerary, p. 263, " The Haven will receive an huge number of Shippes, and upon bothe the bankes of the City and Galata, shippes of five hundred tunnes or greater, once unloaded, may so lie with their Cables fastened on the Land, as they can passe from the shippes to Land without any boates." See also Sandys' account of the Haven in Appe7idix E and Thevenot, Voyage into the Levant^ Part i. p. 19.

2 Transit boats, modern Greek Trepafx, a passage, pass, strait, a boat.

Compare the following allusions to this kind of boat : —

1597. "I...hyred a boat called Pyrame." Moryson, Itinerary, p. 266.

1610. "On the other side of the Haven (continually crossed by multitudes of little Boats called Permagies, and rowed for the most part by Egj^ptians)." Sandys, Travels, p. 30.

1614. "Little boats... called Perames, sometimes with two, some- times with four oars." Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 26.

1640. " On y va (de I'un a I'autre bord du port de Constantinople) parde petites nasselles qu'ils appellent Permez faites a peu prez comma sont les gondolles de Venise; mais plus legeres encore." Du Loir, Voyages, p. 67.

1655. "There are on both sides a great many Caiques and Permes, which will carry you over for a very small matter.... Permes are little shght Boats or Wherries, and so ticklish, that by leaning more to one side than another, it is an easie matter to overset them."" Thevenot, Travels into the Levant, Part i. p. 27.

1 8 10. " Peramidias, or small wherries, which ply upon the canal." Hobhouse, yf/zr/z^j/ through Albania, vol. ii. p. 955.

^ Caramoussal, carmousal, Turk, qaramusal, a kind of ship ; It. caraniussale, a Turkish merchantman, a Turkish ship with a very high poop. See Murray, Oxford English Dictionary, s.v. Caramoussal.

UNTILL ANNO 162O 39

Ninthly : I was at Tophana^, or place of Artillery, where I saw a multitude of Ordnance lying on the ground, amon[g] the rest one with three bores, and another whose bore was twelve of my spannes, within which I have com- puted is Near thirty inches, or two and a half feet Diameter^

TentJily and lastly : There hapned at my beeing thear three terrible accidents : a Small earthquake^ a fearfuU fire^ which by report consumed about four thousand

^ i.e. the Top-khdna. Evliya Efendi, Travels iti Europe., vol. I. Part ii. pp. 54 — 62, has a long description of the Top-khdna and of the suburb to which it gave its name. Of the foundation, he says as follows, p. 54, " Top-khanah, in the time of the Infidels, was a convent situated in the middle of a forest : this is the mosque called the mosque of Jehanglr: as it was dedicated to Saint Alexander, the Infidels visit it once every year on the feast of this Saint.... Thus the foundation of Top-khanah is carried back to Alexander[?]. Muhammad 11. built here the gunfoundery and Bayazid II. enlarged it, and added the barracks."

Compare Thevenot, Voyage into the Levant., Part i. p. 27, " Tophana lies upon the Rivers side over against the Serraglio : It is called Tophana, that is to say, the House of Cannon, because it is the place where Guns and other Pieces of Artillery are cast, and that gives the name to all that Quarter, which is a kind of little Town." See also Delia Valle, Voyages., vol. i. p. 26.

2 "In the yeare 1605. ..a French gentleman presumed to tell [count] the artillery and canons before the Topinaw as they lay by the sea shore." Gainsford, Glory of England, p. 197.

^ Compare Thevenot, Voyage into the Levatit, Part i. p. 19, "This town (Constantinople) is so subject to Earthquakes, that I have felt two in one night." See also note 4.

* Compare the following allusions to the prevalence of fires at Constantinople in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries : —

" The Citie of Constantinople in time past had eleven gates.... But the continuall fires, the many Earthquakes... overthrew the famous Ancient wall." Sanderson, Voyage., in Purchas His Pilgrinies, Book ix. ch. 16, p. 1628 f

" In Constantinople there have happened many fearefuU fires... and now lately in the yeare 1607, October 14, there were burned above three thousand houses." Lithgow, Painefull Peregriitations, p. 138.

Purchas, Pilgrimage, p. 289, mentions an extensive fire at Con- stantinople in 1606, and, on p. 295, he alludes to the portents at the end of the reign of Sultan Ahmad, " First they were astonished at a blazing Comet, secondly they were affrighted at a great fire hapning amongst the Jewes, which they presaged ominous. Thirdly a sore Earth quake made their hearts quake for feare. The Sea also swelled extraordinarily. And a great dearth hapned."

Thevenot, Voyage into the Levant, Part i. p. 26, remarks, " As to

40 VOYAGES AND PASSAGES, ANNO 1608 UNTILL ANNO 162O

houses, beeing Most small shoppes or boothes of boards ; and a Mortell plague of pestilence \ which at the highest consumed above one thousand a day in that Citty^ : from which evills and all others, good Lord deliver us. Amen=*.

the Houses of Constantinople, they are very ordinary, and almost all of Wood, which is the cause that when Fires happen, as they do very often, they make great havock amongst them, especially if a wind blow : there were three Fires in Constantinople in the space of eight months that I sojourned there; the first... burnt down eight thousand Houses.. ..In the time cf Sultan Amurat, such a fire raged there for three days, as ruined one half of the Town."

^ See Moryson, Itinerary^ p. 265, and Delia Valle, Voyages, vol. i. p. 49 f.

Compare Du Loir, Voyages, p. 34, " Cette ville (Constantmople) est tellement afifiigee de la peste qu'il arrive quelque fois que par una seule porte on enleve plus de mille personnes mortes en un seul jour."

2 Evliya Efendi regarded the heavy loss of life from plague, fire or earthquake with great equanimity. He casually remarks. Travels in Eurohe, vol. I. Part i. p. 23, " Istambol is so vast a city that if a thousand die in it, the want of them is not felt in such an ocean of men."

3 This concludes the Author's Siipplenient to Relation I.

Sern Vol